stone setting round a ring

[Dennis]

Your idea would work just as well donnie, but the cut ends would still have to be hollowed to fit the collet, so the problem of fitting it won't really go away.

In addition, if the ring is just the right size, cutting and filing will most likely disrupt it, so adding a new problem. Dennis.

[Goldsmith]

Photos always make suggestions easier, as we are all tying to imagine what you are trying to do,what is the type of setting you are making.
Is the stone oval or round, anything like these perhaps:
The oval stone stone ring has a tube soldered under the bezel setting setting to fill the gap and the round stone has a longer bezel setting filed half round to fit the ring shank.



James

[theresa]

or, file a flat on the ring itself as it is thick, then the bezel should sit flat.

[ladybug]

Thank you everyone, I am still trying to work it out : ) I did think about filing a flat area but I am not sure this will work as then there will be a flat side? I have attached a photo, hope this helps???

[Dennis]

The problem is more or less as I visualised and replied in my second post. The only difference is that you have used a strip of hammered metal for the ring shank. In any case, the base of the tube setting has to be made to fit your ring. Seeing it now, I would forget about strengthening this setting and just start again.

What you have, could also be a little short (not tall enough). If so, make a new taller setting, but use thicker material so that it keeps its shape.

I would suggest like mizgeorge, cutting it from fine silver sheet rather than bezel strip, and using 0.5mm thickness, which will resist bending while filing. I explained a way to fit it above.

You still need to be gentle and restore the roundness from time to time. Then when setting, as mizgeorge also mentioned above, bevel the top edge for a neat finish.

The second problem is that the hammered texture of the ring might interfere with a good fit, but if you mark the circle where the setting is to go, you can file down any large bumps slightly. Once there are only a few tiny gaps, plenty of solder placed all round inside will fill them when heated.

Goldsmith has shown you the ideal finish, but of course he started with a smooth ring. Denns.

[ladybug]

Thank you for all of your help, that's brilliant, I get it now : )

[Dennis]

I hope it goes smoothly now, but have added this note which might provide extra help. For an example I have drawn a cross section of a ring, on 1mm graph paper, but when you click on it you will see it magnified.

The outer diameter if the ring I used is 22mm. The diameter of the cabochon is 10mm. For this example, the setting only needs to be about 1.5mm longer on each side after fitting to the ring and it should be tall enough just to grip the stone. If it is too tall, it will not set neatly.

You will also see that there is a gap on either side underneath the stone. You can manage to cope with that, but the stone will be steadier for setting if you put short pieces of wire on each side underneath the stone (1mm wire would do here).They do not have to be soldered in.

Lastly, a cone of BluTack is an easy way to lift the stone into place.To avoid the stone getting stuck before you are ready to set it, lay a piece of dental floss (from the chemist) across the bottom, with long ends protruding. Then you will have something to yank it out with. Regards, Dennis.