Results 1 to 10 of 49

Thread: Soldering

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Guildford, United Kingdom
    Posts
    383

    Default Soldering

    Soldering so far seems to be my weak point! Today I soldered a couple pieces of metal together using medium strip solder and it turned out ok, though I see I missed an area. I have a bit of a problem keeping those little silver solder pieces from flying away!

    My next pieces to solder on the same piece I used an easy silver solder paste. After three times of soldering and ending up with a very weak join that broke with the slightest resistance I've quit for the night. I've never used solder paste before and not quite sure what to make of it. Is it supposed to get the liquid look the same as solder strip? It never really seemed to and I had it under fire for what seemed too long. Tomorrow I am going to put a blob of solder paste on a scrap piece of metal uncovered and hit it with a torch to see how it reacts and how long it takes.

    Are there other options for soldering delicate areas that are appropriate such as a soldering iron maybe?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cornwall
    Posts
    3,172

    Default

    As long as your join is good, you should find that paste solder works in the same way and you get the same "flash". I only use it when I'm soldering something onto something else like a gold heart onto a ring where it's difficult to use a pallion. I also use it when soldering small things like jump rings. It's just as strong as strip solder.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Guildford, United Kingdom
    Posts
    383

    Default

    What could I be doing wrong that my joins aren't holding? Is it possible I am overheating it? I figured too much heat must be better than not enough but maybe not. And then I'm never quite sure what the best way to clean the metal prior to soldering. I've tried sanding with fine paper, pickled, used mineral spirits, sometimes washing up liquid but haven't decided what actually works. Maybe there was a residue on the metal?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cornwall
    Posts
    3,172

    Default

    Maybe you're trying too hard. As long as you have 2 closely fitting pieces (hold the join up to the light and if you can see daylight through the gap, you need to resaw the join) you only really have to give the pieces a quick rub with a bit of wet and dry (I don't normally bother) and they're ready to solder. I never do anything to actually wash the pieces, it's just not necessary.

    When you heat the piece, do you make sure the whole piece is hot before you direct the flame onto the join?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,851

    Default

    Hi Sandra, At the moment you seem to be stuck, but as Carole has said there is no need to wash anything. The pieces to be joined need to be freshly cut, or filed, or rubbed up with an abrasive pad, or a retractable glass brush, so that they are bright.

    That said, traces of pickle tend to inhibit soldering, so that needs to be rinsed away thoroughly.

    Beginners are attracted to solder paste, partly because it has its own flux and seems easy to use. In fact I find it extremely tricky and have often been let down by it. It is particularly prone to burn to a cinder instead of flowing, if the soldering flame hits it before the whole piece is upto temperature.

    As for medium strip solder, most of us shun it as an invention of the devil, because it tends to trickle instead of flowing. That leaves hard and easy solder strip and in some circumstances extra easy.

    Then there is solder flying off which is a matter of applying the heat very gently at first, until the borax has expanded (flowered) and collapsed again. I you find yourself impatient with this, you can recruit a hairdryer to do this part for you. Actually a number of us use Auflux/Auroflux, which comes as a liquid and is less prone to swell up.

    Please note the the same grade can be used more than once consecutively, because it will only re-melt next at a higher temperature.

    Soft solder (and soldering irons) can be used for non precious metals, but is not of hallmarking quality, and traces of it can contaminate a bench and your tools, making it a no no near precious metals.

    Please keep asking until you succeed. Dennis.
    Last edited by Dennis; 30-10-2013 at 11:39 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Guildford, United Kingdom
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Oh thanks to both of you, I know what I am doing wrong now! I am definitely getting too anxious and hitting the piece with a direct fame too quickly. I also used pickle prior to soldering the last few times.
    I chose medium solder at the time because I wasn't sure which to order so thought the middle one was safest. I really do not like the solder paste though. My next purchase is going to have to be easy solder strips and borax. I'm trying my hardest to finish a piece for the October competition but am still learning as I go along so it's slow going!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •