Soldering torch choices

[Exsecratio]

i'm not sure what all the differences are, the torch i had was supposed to reach 1300

Burning air (21% Oxygen) a propane / butane or ProButane torch can reach 1970 to 1995 Centigrade but the item you are trying to heat / the torch nozzle / incorrect mix ratios takes some of that heat away leaving you with a useful adiabatic temperature of about 1,000 degrees centigrade. Flame temperature and potential heating temperature are quite different animals.
OxyPropane or OxyHydrogen will reach 2880 centigrade with a sustained heating temperature of 2,000 degrees or so (more than enough to weld Platinum at 1768 degrees).

When a company makes claims about the temperature of non Oxygen based torches they usually refer to the flame temperature and not the potential heating temperature...legal...but a little underhanded

best wishes

Dave

[Dennis]

What do you use Dennis?X

When my unbranded minitorch began to give trouble, I went for the Proxxon mainly out of confidence in the brand. It is good and sturdy and easy to work with one hand, but not suitable for large items.

George has tried many more torches than I have and I would trust her judgement, Tasha.

[Truffle & Podge]

ok think i'm settling on the nimrod pt-75 just hoping it has the oomph i need and that it's worth the extra compared to the proxxon, hopefully test driving an orca soon but can see how it would be very useful to have two different types, especially as my scrap pile is growing it's getting that fine line between power and delicacy to still be able to solder a lot smaller pieces and jump rings..........a bit of a toughie!
Again you guys are great i loves ya
ordering tomorrow so if you have any last minute advice please jump in, cripes this is one expensive hobby! better start selling if i can (after assay of course)
X

[susieq]

Just want to say, you ask such great questions!

Today I have been battling with soldering some 0.5m bezels. In class I have been using a Sievert torch to practice soldering the bezels with no problem (although that was copper); my little cooks torch at home, which should be perfectly okay for the bezels - albeit silver, is turning them an alarming bright day-glow red and I'm having to back off with the heat to avoid melting the setting. No idea why the much more powerful sievert at class is fine, but the handheld at home is threatening to melt.

I think one of the troubles of learning to solder is with the determination of what constitutes "large". Trouble is that it's not until you nearly run your torch out of gas trying to solder something and the solder simply won't run that you begin to wonder whether its the torch or you! Still not worked that one out.

I have read somewhere that soldering is hard until one day it isn't. I'm hoping that day will be sooner rather than later.

Susie

[Truffle & Podge]

Burning air (21% Oxygen) a propane / butane or ProButane torch can reach 1970 to 1995 Centigrade but the item you are trying to heat / the torch nozzle / incorrect mix ratios takes some of that heat away leaving you with a useful adiabatic temperature of about 1,000 degrees centigrade. Flame temperature and potential heating temperature are quite different animals.
OxyPropane or OxyHydrogen will reach 2880 centigrade with a sustained heating temperature of 2,000 degrees or so (more than enough to weld Platinum at 1768 degrees).

When a company makes claims about the temperature of non Oxygen based torches they usually refer to the flame temperature and not the potential heating temperature...legal...but a little underhanded

best wishes

Dave

as i'm now "truffs" apparently will have to think of a good nick name for you................hmmmm leaning towards "proff" as i barely understand your technical abilities lol, could be worse my 1st thoughts were wavy davy hee hee x

[Exsecratio]

I get called quite a few things Truffs most of them not repeatable much of the time

I just have a good memory for facts and figures,(being Autistic does have some benefits although I'm a rubbish dinner guest) I don't really have much of anything in the way of skills like the people here do though

best wishes

Dave

[Dennis]

Today I have been battling with soldering some 0.5m bezels. In class I have been using a Sievert torch to practice soldering the bezels with no problem (although that was copper); my little cooks torch at home, which should be perfectly okay for the bezels - albeit silver, is turning them an alarming bright day-glow red and I'm having to back off with the heat to avoid melting the setting. No idea why the much more powerful sievert at class is fine, but the handheld at home is threatening to melt Susie

The Sievert has a relatively bushy flame, which does not concentrate the heat as much and the size of flame can be reduced. Can't you close down the air hole on you cooks torch a little, to stop it roaring, Susie?

[t1ggerk1ns]

I have read somewhere that soldering is hard until one day it isn't. I'm hoping that day will be sooner rather than later.

Susie

As an ex (??) electronics engineer, I don't have too much problem with soldering these days, but this is definitely true.

The moment of joy when ones attempts with a circuit board cease to look as if covered in pigeon droppings was tremendous.

[ps_bond]

I do tend to feel that soldering with an iron (or a hot air pencil) is a wee bit easier than jewellery soldering... Although with the advent of higher density pins on devices (particularly BGAs) the chances of hand-reworking one are diminishing.

[t1ggerk1ns]

I do tend to feel that soldering with an iron (or a hot air pencil) is a wee bit easier than jewellery soldering... Although with the advent of higher density pins on devices (particularly BGAs) the chances of hand-reworking one are diminishing.

Not so easy as you might think. One of the drawbacks is that unlike jewellery, you are dealing with cheap and inferior products. The copper tracks these days are so paper thin, too much heat and they frizzle up.

But the principle is the same. To apply the correct amount of heat in the right place at the right time, coordinated with the correct application of the correct solder in order that the solder flows to give a neat but strong bond between the surfaces.

Both are, as with a lot of things, mastered through patience and perseverance, and when mastered create a piece of work that can be looked on with a great deal of satisfaction.