Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 35

Thread: Making drawbenches

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,851

    Default

    I'm having trouble with my magnetic burr stand: lots of new screw mandrels won't stick.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    Plated brass?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    I've finally got a quick & easy clamping method for drawplates that I like: Toggle clamps.
    Bought some inline clamps on EBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301016691124
    Now I need to weld a mounting plate on so I can bolt them at the right height.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    8,851

    Default

    I've not met these before, so I'm not sure what is inside the rubber ends to resist the drawing forces Peter. Also drawplates come in at least two sizes , so how will you deal with that?

    As you know, I use a carpenters vice, which is smooth and does not mark the plates. It is also quick to release plates and move to a different row. It attaches with a clamp and two screws.Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Carpenter's vice.JPG  

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    They're just to press the plate against the main upright on my drawbench (a 50mm piece of angle with a hole in it), so they don't have to resist the full drawing force, they're just to stop the drawplate falling off. The rubber ends cover steel and the shank is threaded so they can be adjusted easily. They're very quick to use - they're used a lot as holddowns for jigs and the likes; you can get them with all sorts of orientations and holding strengths.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    England
    Posts
    1,902

    Default

    I would have suggested spring clamps for holding your drawplate steady against the angle iron Peter, I use these types for many uses;
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-165mm...ring+clamp+set
    Under £3 a pair.

    James

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    Funnily enough, that's what I've been using - I just fancied something more integrated with the bench. Or possibly just over-complicating things, for a change.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cornwall
    Posts
    3,172

    Default

    I don't have the skills to make a draw bench and I don't want to clutter my studio with one, so I was wondering what you think of this one http://www.free-form.ch/tools/draw.html

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    Looks a nice simple design, dead easy to fabricate and a nice touch on using the channel end as a brace for the drawplate.
    Worth £475 + taxes? No. It's maybe £20 of steel and a £20 boat winch with some mounting bolts. It'd be preferable to use a completely standard channel size, but there may be some cutting involved (and drilling holes for the mounting bolts). No welding.

    Anyone with a drill and an angle grinder could make that; might be worth asking a garage if they'd do one for beer money?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,258

    Default

    Actually, it occurs to me I ought to work out the price of this as I would with a piece of jewellery.

    OK, materials costs:
    Steel £20
    Boat winch £20 max (could go cheaper)
    3 csk bolts, nuts and washers. £1?
    Time to layout and drill 3 holes and countersink - 15 mins.
    Possible time to chop some of the channel height down to allow the winch handle access - 15 mins.
    Drawfile sharp edges - couple of minutes at most.

    Call it £20/hour because it makes the maths easy; wholesale price £60. (1.2x materials + time with rounding!)
    Retail £120.

    Or... Buy flat steel and weld up a suitable channel. Slower - it'll need more finishing of the welds, won't need cutting but will still need drilling. Steel cost would probably end up the same.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •