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Thread: How to set the graver blade into graver handle?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Florida
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    154

    Default How to set the graver blade into graver handle?

    Kind of stupid question , but I can not figure out the best way.
    I received graver blades and handles for them with just little drilled spot mark where to set. Should I drill the hole, what size so the graver will set securely into handle?
    And how I can push the graver into without any damage to blade?
    Lana.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    England
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    Lana, First adjust the graver length to suit your hand size, then drill about an inch into the handle, then grip the graver in a bench vise and finally tap the handle onto the blade with a mallet. I see that you are in the USA, are you referring to what us in the UK call scorpers if so I have attached some blade prep. photos.

    James

    Click image for larger version. 

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Name:	61 A Scorper after grinding to shape.jpg 
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Florida
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    Default

    Ones again, thank you James!
    Of course, vise! My scorpers (spell check disagrees ) have the setting curve about half of inch, so I don't need to drill the whole inch.
    I just bought two small ones, flat and onglette, to test how it is.
    Lana.

  4. #4
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    Feb 2013
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    Finland
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    Default

    Just don't burn them when grinding to shape, take your time & dip them in water alot.

    Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    dear old Blighty - (in deepest Wiltshire)
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    As a little extra, something I learned when taught to set stone that has remained. Have a dedicated cloth available (to wipe the oil residue from the scorper if you have used an Arkansas - or equivolent, stone) and some ultra fine grit (2200) paper for cleaning the mega micro pieces of metal that appear also from sharpening. A wood block, is suggested by Hanuman over at Ganoskin if you don't want to be faffing around with grit papers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Florida
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    Default

    Thanks, guys.
    I even did not go for shaping and sharpening yet. I bought two new gravers shaped just to know how they are originally shaped, since I've never seen them before. I have three stone sharpener I use for kitchen knives (80 grit alum. oxide, 220grit diamond,380 grit ceramic- used the most) , and buffing wheel for sharpening with coarse grit wheel (I can buy fine in hardware store).
    Lana.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    England
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    Default

    I have posted this before, but for anyone who is interested, I always re harden and temper my scorpers after shortening and shaping them.
    I prepared a photo sheet that shows the process. Sorry to those who have already seen this.

    James

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	132 Scorper prep photo sheet.jpg 
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Preparing a scorper sheet.jpg  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    Default

    I assume you don't use HSS scorpers?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Finland
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    I converted to Lyndsay templates a few years ago & don't bother with shop bought anymore..they seem to last forever not having to re-grind very often.

    Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    dear old Blighty - (in deepest Wiltshire)
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    Default

    I have toyed with the idea of these -and thought I had completed my tool requirements for the year. Lol.... Oh dear... Must not look.... Oooooh.....

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