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Thread: Screw back mounts for nonpierced ears tutorials, where to find?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizgeorge View Post
    Is there a particular reason you're using only argentium rather than sterling? Other than for fused pieces, I have to admit I haven't found a great deal to make me pay the (in our case significant) extra for it.
    Originally I started all this jewelry studio to stretch my leather working to jewelry level. Not "crafty" level, but more like serious jewelry level. I decided that argentium will be more suitable for my goal since it tarnishes slower, and the tarnish can be removed gently with Windex.

  2. #12
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    Quote[I'm afraid to annoy you with all my questions]Quote

    Without questions (and answers) this forum would be dead, feet first, six feet under and pushing daisies. I wish there were more people willing to pound their key board. Dennis.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBouillon View Post
    Originally I started all this jewelry studio to stretch my leather working to jewelry level. Not "crafty" level, but more like serious jewelry level. I decided that argentium will be more suitable for my goal since it tarnishes slower, and the tarnish can be removed gently with Windex.
    Tarnish isn't hard to remove from regular Sterling, and can be avoided almost entirely with careful storage but the main reason I asked is with particular reference to the question you've asked in this thread in that Argentium is much more difficult to solder successfully than sterling, for various reasons. It needs a great deal more support during the heating process to stop it from collapsing, can be very brittle at high temperature and needs to be quenched at a lower temperature to avoid cracking or breaking.

    It's a useful alloy, and one I use for specific applications, but I have to say I find a decision to work exclusively with it rather than using the best material for the job in hand a very brave one!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizgeorge View Post
    Tarnish isn't hard to remove from regular Sterling, and can be avoided almost entirely with careful storage
    From the leather crafter's and customer's perspective I need to disagree with you on that
    I live in humid place, and even with care I can forget my jewelry to protect or I can simply misplace it. I did not find that removing patina from ss, which is very close to leather is safe. It's not. Especially if it's piece with delicate snake skin for example. Also, in humid climate SS may tarnish very fast and very dark.
    I don't want my future customers may face that issue. I feel responsible for what I sell.

    I tested argentium already, it does tarnish way slower and way less compare to ss. I'm pretty satisfied with outcome, and with argentium color as well. I fell in love with it.
    I'm aware of all the troubles with agrentium, and pretty big bunch of scrap can prove it

    Patina on silver can be one of the solutions to make the tarnishing silver/leather combo less painful. From another side, it will give me limitations in design. I can cover SS with clear protective coating, but again, it's limitation.

    I used to combine leather with gold filled components, and it worked, but again- limitations in design. The best metal for leather is gold, but I did not win the lottery yet.

    Another solution may be plating silver. I don't feel I'm ready for that.
    Last edited by SilverBouillon; 21-02-2013 at 03:27 PM.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBouillon View Post
    The best metal for leather is gold, but I did not win the lottery yet. Another solution may be plating silver. I don't feel I'm ready for that.
    Here are some of mine, one brass and two silver. Dennis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ber. Brass Buckle.jpg   be Retro Belt Buckle.jpg   be Name Buckle.jpg  

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Here are some of mine, one brass and two silver. Dennis.
    Oh, Dennis, that's beautiful. I have no clue how to make that tiny lion, casting? Do you work with leather as well?

    How about practical perspective? I see the the brass buckle is on veg. tanned leather, not coated. How long it lasts looking new?

    All I can show you is the piece I failed. It has been two month I can not finish it. When I add silver, they both, silver and leather, don't compliment each other- look "cheap" together.
    It's either lack of skills, or I need to find another way.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by SilverBouillon; 21-02-2013 at 10:19 PM.

  7. #17
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    Your leather earrings look very jolly and if you don't like silver with them I'm sure Rio Grande can supply gold filled.

    The brass lion was made of layers of sheet formed in my hydraulic press and the curly bits carved with burrs. I have made quite a few buckles, but I only buy in ready cut straps and punch skive and rivet them. Recently I have learned to bevel and finish the edges.

    The un-dyed strap was the wearer's choice, but it is only buttoned on so other colours can be substituted. Dennis.

  8. #18
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    Thanks Dennis.
    I need to buy press eventually , great work!

    I used to work with gold filled wire and components for bidding. It's very hard to do some original design with gold filled components, and even one little scratch was a problem. I sold out all my gold filled wire stock and returned all my investment when price on gold skyrocketed. If I only knew before...

    As for riogrande, metals cost more there compare to buying directly from the manufacturer. I have to admit that riogrande has very good selection on gallery wire and some other things, which is hard to find together from the same supplier.

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