You could also grind off the bottom of ball burrs..then you have a nice flat bottom burr that's useful for opening cab settings.
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You could also grind off the bottom of ball burrs..then you have a nice flat bottom burr that's useful for opening cab settings.
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Chris, I have so many old ball burrs strewn around my studio, why didn't I think of that? You're wonderful! Thanks for the tip
Pointy back stones, if your tube setting you only need a ball burr.
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I was told that the stone made an audible "click" when it was set properly and the only way that would happen was if you used a rim inside, or am I getting it mixed up with flush setting. I have never been taught, just picked things up from people, mostly on this forum. The only lessons I have ever had was at an evening school for one evening a week for ten weeks, and learnt how to solder and do bezel setting cabs, and I am afraid that is all. I am sorry for using "pointy back stones" but I dont know how else to describe them.
What do I need for flush setting then please, I have setting burrs, ball burrs, and cutting burrs in most of the sizes that I use.
Last edited by Patstone; 03-03-2013 at 08:38 AM.
You can call stones pointy backed if you like or then faceted.
There is not alot of difference between tube & flush setting apart from one has a "wall" to work over & the other a "flat" surface.
Stones making a click noise require a "bearing" or rim inside..& that noise means the stone fitted nice & snug in the hole (that does not mean it is set), but it may appear so..
There is no right or wrong way to do things, i use both methods on both styles..whichever i think might be easiest or best in the situation at hand.
Sounds like you have all you need for flush setting, the only other thing is some kind of burnisher.. use brass if your worried about scuffing stones.
Getting a hole just right & a rim cut just right for a tight fit without stone damage is abit tricky but practice is the only way forward.
Some kind of magnification helps! You`ll manage, just shout if you need abit more help.
Thanks you are a star. I have magnification and plenty of light on the subject, my problem is that I only have one eye and you lose the "how far away things are" judgement. Lost it four years ago in a cataract op that went wrong so still getting used to trying to judge distance. I am doing quite well now, but trying to line up the rim inside so that it is cut straight is a bit trying, and I wondered if there was an easier way of doing it. The idea of using a tapered cylinder burr looked interesting at least it would be straight so the stone wont be at a jaunty angle. Faceted is the word I was looking for, thanks again, terminology is something I struggle with, which I suppose comes in time talking to you guys, sometimes its like reading a foreign language.
Last edited by Patstone; 03-03-2013 at 09:10 AM.
Wow, well done for persevering , must be quite a challenge for you.
I tend to use a really small bearing cutter compared to the hole, holding the work at an angle to concentrate cutting a "quarter way around" at a time until the cuts meet.
You can go over it again deeper if needed, but i find it helps keep the "levelness" abit better.
Maybe we are..It's the result that counts not how you get there (with the exception of glue)!
Of course, learning a proper method(s) first is best, after that you can "bend" the rules abit to suit you.
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Last edited by Gemsetterchris; 03-03-2013 at 04:32 PM.
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