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Thread: Mokume Gane

  1. #1
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    Default Mokume Gane

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    My latest attempt at forging Mokume Gane from old coins.

    I have since filed out the craters and re polished but copper not yet tarnished enough to show up clearly anybody know if there is an easy way to speed this up, was thinking about trying a mild acid possibly vinegar but decided to ask here first.

    Cheers
    Carl

  2. #2
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    Mokume's a swine for showing the pattern - too highly polished and you don't see anything but the reflections. Once you've polished it, it might be worth scuffing it back lightly with some 1200 grit; as for patina, a quick & easy way to get the colour to develop again is to give it a heat patina - just warm it until you see the copper change colour.

    Of course, rokusho is the traditional patina to use... Copper sulphate will change the colour too.

    May I humbly suggest that by using coins you're making life a lot more difficult for yourself? Clean sheet metal isn't all that expensive and will give you a far better diffusion bond than coins can - you really need to get the stack of coins quite close to melting the lot.

  3. #3
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    Apart from copper, what metals have you used here, Carl?

  4. #4
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    Peter, thanks for the hints, I take your point re the coins and will now stop sorting through my loose change to dig out the old coppers that I have now learned are bronze anyway I was thinking of going to thinner sheets to get more layers anyway.

    Dennis, The other metal is Cupro-nickel (75% copper, 25% nickel) small disks are available at 5p each.

    Looking forward to my next attempt.

    Carl

  5. #5
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    Back to the drawing board. Cut some sheets of brass and copper, and using the same gauge steel as before attempted to improve the compression of the stack by using bolts rather than squeeze in vice then rivet with old nails system I was using. Think I need some thicker steel
    Last edited by Carl Grigg; 14-11-2012 at 09:10 PM.

  6. #6
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    Fwiw, my mokume pressing plates are 1/2" O1 (which is stiffer at heat than mild is). I think I'd prefer 3/4" instead - better yet with stainless bolts as well.

  7. #7
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    Sounds a little pricey probably have to wait till pay day. Did buy a rolling mill this month so the next bit does not have to be hammered all the way down.

    Don't know much about steel but have access to an angle grinder and a reasonable pillar drill do you think that would be enough or should I get the local engineering shop to knock them up for me.

    Thanks again for your help

    Carl

  8. #8
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    A hacksaw and a drillpress are all that're needed. This lot - http://www.cromwell.co.uk/index.php?...rowse&c=160202 tend to do O1 (AKA GFS or gauge plate) at a decent price. The plates last for ages (although I am using mine in a kiln, in a stainless foil bag, with charcoal to scavenge oxygen); the bolts less so - I haven't yet switched to stainless as I'm still working through a large stock of carbon steel ones.

  9. #9
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    Had a nose through a friends scrap pile today and found some 6mm steel and with a little redesign have got the effect I was after. hopefully it will keep me going while I save up for some BIG steel. I also carved myself a "hot chamber" out of an insulated fire brick and cleaned the metal, just copper and brass this time, more than I have in the past. unfortunately by the time I had got it all together it was a little late to start hammering in the garage so on hold till tomorrow.

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    I am working towards attempting to use a kiln (I have one I use for glass) but hope to learn more about the process by starting lower tech.
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    Last edited by Carl Grigg; 17-11-2012 at 11:37 PM.

  10. #10
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    I think I've got a billet Forged down to 5mm so far, my Cookson value roller can't take over till 3mm so still some hammering to do yet but it is looking solid so fingers crossed.

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    The copper on top is to show the original size.

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