1 Year to perfect it, but where to start

[Toni]

Apartently the little dove has changed her mind about design. although i am still interested in making one like the above. i will not be beaten

Wax casting was my original thought, and the stone would be flush with the surface. i am glad you pros think this too.

Copper, never thought of using that for mock ups!

I will update you on my progress with this, and what design my friend comes up with...tut...copper...why didnt i think of that lol

[Toni]

So the design is a simple single band, with 5 stones, flush with the surface, once i get the proto up and running ill post a picture.

Going to contact some diamond suppliers and get some prices

Just got to work out how to set the stone without damaging the gold, when setting in silver i end up with sratch marks where i am pinching the top over the stone....practice

[Toni]

this is what we are going for

[ps_bond]

One of my early flush-setting experiments -



I'd strongly recommend the Blaine Lewis DVD on flush setting - yes, I know it's expensive, but it is very, very good (as I've enthused before).

[Dennis]

Well that at least avoids the necessity for casting. Its easy enough to make yourself, or even to buy one ready made. You will note from my earlier post and Peter's example that the stones need to be well protected by metal on each side.

You will also need to practice if you have not done so already, to mark out accurately using dividers, the positions for the pilot holes of your settings.

The starting pits can then be made with a tiny ball burr, rather than a punch.

The holes are best drilled using a mini-pillar drill, such as the smallest Proxxon, or a vertical stand for your present handpiece.

The ring needs to be fixed vertically and moved for each hole in a mini drill vice. The jaws of the vice are made safe with masking tape. Dennis.

[Toni]

One of my early flush-setting experiments -



I'd strongly recommend the Blaine Lewis DVD on flush setting - yes, I know it's expensive, but it is very, very good (as I've enthused before).

that is beautiful.

Ah yes it is expensive...mind you i guess if i want to do it right, i need to do it properly.

[ps_bond]

A plain oval wire band ring with some holes in it, really. I *think* that was after I got my Foredom - trying to cut stone sets with a Dremel is not good for the nerves (or safety) - it spins far too fast and the lack of foot control makes it all a bit iffy. The main tools used for the setting work were a 1mm drill bit, bud burrs, setting burrs and a needle burnisher. Oh, and a suitable ring clamp.

[Wallace]

One of my early flush-setting experiments -



I'd strongly recommend the Blaine Lewis DVD on flush setting - yes, I know it's expensive, but it is very, very good (as I've enthused before).

A most excellent DVD

you may find it useful to have a look at some of Alan Revere's tips too.. I would offer the JCK website, but it loads adds all the time!

Attachment 4240 this is a ring I made for my lad for his year 11 'prom' With a little help from watching the video.

It isn't on D Wire, but it was great fun to make.

[Toni]

Well i think i am getting their, i have the stones and material, and am working on my mock ring

At the moment i am managing about a 20% success rate, but have contacted someone for a price to set the stones if it gets too close and i havent achieve 95-100%

Although in theory i am doing it right, (mind you if i was doing it right i would have success lol) when i come to actually making the seat for the stone, my burr doesnt actually seem to be doing anything (strange as its new) but none the less i have a theory about this...not lubricating it aparently.....im sure ill get there...

Unfortunately i have no pictures for the time being...my mock ring consists of only holes, toying with the idea of just hammering it flat once done (still ring shape) might look good...might not

OOoooo trial and error

[Dennis]

You're right. Lubricate with a little 3-IN-ONE oil and once drilled, you can turn the burrs by hand in a pin vice, (also called universal handle Cookson 999AZM) for the best accuracy and for conserving burrs.

If funds allow, get two, to save changing burrs, but if you are making tiny undercuts, you will still need a scorper, or a handpiece for the tiny burr. http://www.cooksongold.com/category_...?query=999+AZM
Dennis.