So Enamelling?

[Di Sandland]

Ooh, I didn't know there was an enamel shop at Launceston! Have car will travel ;-) Now I've started talking about it to other 'interested' peeps I am dead excited!

[Di Sandland]

thanks James x

[medusa]

With reds in particular the right flux is crucial. I always use Soyer Silver flux on silver and Soyer copper flux on copper. In my opinion these are by far the best and are very reliable.

I tried the soyer silver flux and it still comes out like mud I'll give it another go when I have time though. The enamels I've used are from Milton Bridge and I have no problem with the greens to blues, so that's what I mostly stick to.

[Lindy]

Are you enamelling on sterling or fine silver? It sounds as if you have fire stain which occurs if the surface is not well protected during annealing or soldering. Really, I find that you need to use nitric to clean the surface to reveal a layer of fine silver, if it has been subjected to heat at all. You could presumably otherwise use depletion building but I haven't actually tried that myself. Generally, I don't solder the piece until after enamelling. Then findings can be successfully soldered to the back using hard solder and supporting the piece by its edges. You need to be quick and confident with the torch. I leave the piece to air cool before pickling. With hard solder it is possible to refire the piece if necessary. I often protect the solder joint with typists correction fluid. The silver from Cooksons is supplied annealed so can be successfully shaped without any further annealing. Enamelled jewellery is all about designing the piece to minimise soldering and to ensure that solder and enamel don't have contact with each other.

[Lindy]

We all started somewhere and generally our members are really supportive and encouraging of first efforts.

[Lindy]

Balls only do unleaded, but they are great for liquid enamels. Personally I use Vitrum Signum and have done for many years. They are very helpful on the phone. There is also Milton Bridge that do there own range. I have some to try out as I met the owner earlier this year. He explained that the reason colours change, is often because of European directives saying they can't use an ingredient any more so they have to come up with a new recipe without it. He was very helpful too.

[caroleallen]

When I first started enamelling the best information I found was a leaflet from The Enamel Shop that was on Covent Garden. They are long gone but these books on my book shelf would be useful for beginners. I found it best to read as many as possible, because what one person leaves out as being obvious, someone else will include. So, on no particular order, here goes.
Beginners Guide to Enamelling by Dorothy Cockrell published by Search Press
Enamelling by Ruth Ball published by A & C Black
The Art of Enamelling by Linda Darty, a personal favourite.
The Art of Fine Enamelling by Karen L Cohen
New Crafts Enamelling by Denise Palmer

The top one is very basic and mainly features projects on copper but is good for basics. Of course the Guild of Enamellers also have their own DVDs for sale which are excellent.

The Enamel Shop from Covent Garden now only do mail order. They're based in Launceston. I don't think you can visit them Di, unfortunately.

[caroleallen]

Are you enamelling on sterling or fine silver? It sounds as if you have fire stain which occurs if the surface is not well protected during annealing or soldering. Really, I find that you need to use nitric to clean the surface to reveal a layer of fine silver, if it has been subjected to heat at all. You could presumably otherwise use depletion building but I haven't actually tried that myself. Generally, I don't solder the piece until after enamelling. Then findings can be successfully soldered to the back using hard solder and supporting the piece by its edges. You need to be quick and confident with the torch. I leave the piece to air cool before pickling. With hard solder it is possible to refire the piece if necessary. I often protect the solder joint with typists correction fluid. The silver from Cooksons is supplied annealed so can be successfully shaped without any further annealing. Enamelled jewellery is all about designing the piece to minimise soldering and to ensure that solder and enamel don't have contact with each other.

Why do you use hard solder Lindy?

I've also given up on using reds even if I've used nitric acid. I'm happy with the range of blues, greens, browns and purples that I have though as they're the colours of the coastline.

[Goldsmith]

This is an example of some of Milton Bridge's Schauer transparent red enamel on silver. The rectangular flat, sterling silver engine turned plate was 4 inches wide.
James

[Lindy]

Reds are very tricky on silver in particular. They work best on gold because they are gold bearing. My best ones are Japanese but I'm not sure that they are still available. I use them very sparingly. I use hard solder rather than enamelling because it is much nicer to use and usually ok even when the piece has to go back in the kiln. Sometimes I might use medium if I am sure I won't need to refire.