Soldering copper onto silver

[SuseA]

Hello,

I mentioned in an earlier post about an idea of making an articulated bracelet (meaning, silver sheet oblongs, or other shape - linked using jump rings). I've been considering, for a while now, about using copper in some way and seeing as I have a variety of copper wires (diameters) in my box of bits and pieces - I thought I'd check if there's anything I should know before I attempt to solder this onto my silver.

I'll probably make some small swirls, squiggles or heart shapes (as these are easiest to make) and solder one onto each link. I presume silver solder will be fine, and that I can pickle this without any concerns of cross contamination -but is there anything else I should know?

Also I expect the copper will, over time, oxidise -so does this need treating in any way -to minimise this, or is oxidation unavoidable?

Thanks
Suse

[Goldsmith]

Hi Suse,

Silver solder is fine for soldering copper to silver, a clean way is to seat the clean copper onto pallions of solder between it and the silver, like a sandwich, this will give you a clean solder joint when the solder runs. When finished, polished and de greased, you can paint the copper with a lacquer to stop any tarnishing, transparent nail polish will also keep copper tarnish free for a while. Some will advise using solder paste, but I have no experience with this.
In the past I have posted tips on using small home made stainless steel clamps when soldering, if you cannot see my old postings, I make small clampsfrom stainless steel sheet for securing items while soldering. Here are some photos.

James

[SuseA]

Hi James,

This is very helpful - thanks. The idea of using home made stainless steel clamps is brilliant and one that I will definitely borrow I've used reverse hold tweezers for a few things in the past, but your examples look more workable.

You mention lacquer for stopping the oxidation - is there a particular brand or type you use?

Suse

[Goldsmith]

Hi Suse,

I buy my lacquers from Tiranti, see; http://www.tiranti.co.uk/product.asp?Product=1698 ,you can buy a smaller bottle amount to see if it suits you. Tiranti is a good company to keep a note of if you are interested in wax modelling at any time as I get my supplies from them for any modelling I do. Take my tip and spend a bit of time looking over their supplies as there are many things useful for jewellers on their catalogue. I also buy my metal oxydizing chemicals from Tiranti.
See; http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subdivision...ubdivision=272
James

[SuseA]

Thanks for the links James - I've bookmarked the Tiranti site for future reference and will have a good look around it later.

I'd also just like to say that I think this forum is, well, awesome. Newbies like myself benefit immensely from artisans such as your good self and I for one have already learnt so much from the advice given from the likes of ps_bond, Dennis, mizgeorge, Caroleallen, Joe and many others.. without you even knowing - just by using the search facility and spending time reading the threads you post or respond to. So I'd like to thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience

Suse

[MeadMoon]

I'll second that. The advice found by searching the archives has helped me a lot since joining this forum. Thank you all.

[susieq]

Hi James - do you use an ordinary 2.0 blade in your saw to cut the clamps? I'm having a particularly frustrating time with soldering at the moment and decided it was time I made some of your clamps. In 5 mins I got about 1.5cm cut and a blunt saw blade. The gauge is 16 - I was attempting to make a cross-brace first, although I have thinner steel I was going to make the clamps from. Do I need a special steel cutting saw/blade?

Thanks, Susie

[Dennis]

Not James, and he's the expert, but if I were doing it I would either use thinner sheet, say 1.0mm (18gauge) or a heavier blade, say size1. Also lubricate very often. He describes rubbing a piece of candle along the back of the blade. Beeswax is OK too.

When cutting thick sheet (I have just tackled 2.0mm brass) I find that leaning the saw forward and then uprighting it again repeatedly, seems to make lighter work of it. Dennis.

[mizgeorge]

Platinum King sawblades make cutting steel a great deal easier too.

[Goldsmith]

Susie, I make my stainless steel soldering clamps from 0.90mm thick sheet and I cut the strips with my standard Glarden Vallorbe jeweller's saw blades. For cutting this steel I would use size 0 or 2/0 lubricated by rubbing a candle up the rear of the blade.
A 4 inch strip of 4mm. width steel will give nice size general use clamps, just file the clamp ends to points that suit the jobs you are clamping.
James