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Thread: Duncan Kiln The Hobbyist db609

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Pflugerville, Texas
    Posts
    11

    Default Duncan Kiln The Hobbyist db609

    Hi every one I am a little more than new as I have never done any thing with a kiln other than burn out wax from investment for lost wax casting. I have been thinking of trying my hand at metal clay and maybe some other clay projects. I ran across a Duncan Kiln The Hobbyist db609 that has a little damage but works for $50.00 so I bought it. Now the damage is a small bit of the brick at the top broken off, the brick is cracked in one spot and the round plate shelf that sits on the bottom is broken in half. See image....


    Now my questions
    1. is the broken shelf still usable and is it just there to set stuff on?
    2. Will the broken brick cause heating problems like heat being too hot in a given area?
    3. Does anyone know if the Duncan Kiln "The Hobbyist db609" is, for practical purposes, the same as the "Paragon S-11-9-3"? I have looked at the specs/images and they seem the same to me as far as size, power requirements and location of switches.
    4. Should I clean out the kiln and if so how?
    5. Is there an easy way to test the temperature it reaches in a given amount of time? Note: at present I have no cones.
    6. Is there anything I should check when checking to see that it really does work right?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Felmersham, Near Bedford
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Hi and welcome - sorry I can't help with the Kiln questions though. I'm sure someone will be able to!
    Lorraine

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Hi
    I thought I'd sent you a reply a couple of days ago but it's not here.

    You can use broken shelves, I do all the time.
    I can't say if the broken brick will cause heating problems, I suggest you just try it, you can mend holes with refactory cement, which you can get from
    Art Glass Supplier - Warm Glass UK
    Also if the elements are hanging (i've heard but not tried this) you can pin them back with U shaped pieces of nichrome wire.
    I vacuum my kiln out now and again, if you have a lot of loose pieces you might prefer to use a soft brush.
    You can use a themocouple/ pyrometer to test the temperature but I'd just have a go firing something and see if it comes out ok
    If in doubt get an electrician to check over the kiln.
    I bought a small enamelling kiln from ebay and it's been the best buy, it works great

    Jill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    warlingham, surrey
    Posts
    32

    Default

    the broken insulation will cause hot spots in your kiln and on the elements- not a problem if you run it up to temperature slowly. If you are not putting glaze type materials or reducing materials into your kiln you wont cause it to degrade, too much carbon or organic material will cause the exposed elements to lose their oxide layer which will shorten their life. The middle circle is next to a thermocouple so you have the means of measuring the temperature if you can calibrate it. Another method of telling the kiln temp is looking at the colour it is glowing. Once you have stared at kilns at different temps you will son recognise the shade of orange/yellow/ white for the temps you want to go to. Cones need to soak at a particular temp for a while before they wilt so they tend to make people think the temp is lower than it really is so bear this in mind if you go that route
    Nick

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