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Thread: Versatip/Versaflame query

  1. #11
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    Jul 2010
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    Had a look at "solderpro 50" torch, it was not suitable for job, (too agressive)... Kiln idea good...but not enough soldering blocks on my bench...didn't need to use two torch method...bit the bullet, protected solder joints and went in with micro torch...didn,t pack chain with "cool heat" this time which may have been part of the problem the first time round. Used jewellers rouge, (messy clean up job)...Hard solder...came out OK...Thank you

  2. #12
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    Jun 2011
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    Dear noname, could you explain your use of jewellers rouge instead of "cool heat" (which I presume is the same as "thermo gel" ). I'm not familiar with this technique at all! Thank you very much.
    Iori.

  3. #13
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    Jul 2010
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    Solderpro 50 did not do as it appeared to say on the packaging...

  4. #14
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    You did good, as they say over the pond. Yes protecting the chain from heat is the very opposite of what you need, particularly with a good conductor like silver. Some members swear by Tippex as an antiflux and that may be less messy. Regards, Dennis.
    Last edited by Dennis; 24-06-2011 at 08:08 PM.

  5. #15
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    Jun 2011
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    Rhondda, United Kingdom
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    I have a "Go System" refillable micro torch that I use for soldering collets, jumprings and other teeny stuff. Got it in B&Q, runs off lighter fluid and has a pencil flame tip or a soldering tip (which I have yet to use). It's powerful enough to solder settings to ring shanks, my big blowtorch is a bit fierce for small scale work, but perfect for firing pmc and annealing. I did try soldering a jumpring to chain with the big one... and melted about four inches of it Not tried doing anything with chain since, so would welcome tips on how to do it (with just one firing brick!).

  6. #16
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    Romsey
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    Quote Originally Posted by iori View Post
    Dear noname, could you explain your use of jewellers rouge instead of "cool heat" (which I presume is the same as "thermo gel" ). I'm not familiar with this technique at all! Thank you very much.
    Iori.
    Mix some powdered rouge to a paste with either water or meths, paint it onto the object as a solder resist, then dry it carefully before continuing with soldering.
    I have to say I don't seem to get along very well with Thermo Gel, although that could just be lack of familiarity.

  7. #17
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    Quote: I did try soldering a jump ring to chain .

    My previous comment was for tightly woven links, as in maille, where it is difficult to isolate one ring.

    I think we are now going up the wrong path. To close a jump ring attached to a chain, there is absolutely no need to use any antiflux, or gunk whatsoever. Just use a micro torch with the air and the gas slightly reduced. Mine, which I showed above is a common enough one and came from Cooksons.

    Hold the jump ring in very fine tweezers with the join uppermost and the chain hanging down out of the way, apply a minute amount of solder behind and begin to heat very cautiously from in front, so as not to heat the solder directly. By cautiously I mean keeping the tip of the flame further back at first and moving it on and off the jump ring to start with. Remove the flame immediately the solder flows.

    The whole process might take 5- 10 seconds. It helps a lot to do this in semi darkness, so that you can see at once if you are over heating one part. There should only be a dull glow. Dennis.

  8. #18
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    Thank you Dennis, that's exactly what I needed to know! I made blackout curtains for my shed, so that I could fire clay without melting it, so semi darkness is no problemo :-) I shall give that a bash later. Mel

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