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Thread: A Couple of firsts...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Copenhagen, Denmark
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    13

    Default A Couple of firsts...

    Here is a ring i just finished. It's sterling silver with a 7mm onyx cab. It's my first attempt to set a stone, so i went with a bezel. It's also my first ring that is not made with lost wax casting. The design is not the focal point for me on this piece, this is a exercise in new techniques for me, so i went with something simple. My camera is not that good so if the pictures are a bit bad im sorry. Actually it's also first time i post a picture, so hope it works. Constructive criticism is welcome ...

    Best regards

    Anton

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Bristol
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    Default

    I really like it, great work for all those 'firsts' :-)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Southampton
    Posts
    510

    Default

    No fair! I wish my first stone setting was that good! I love the texture of the silver too.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
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    Default

    Dear Anton,
    That is a professional job you did there and I would not normally presume to add any thing more. But as you ask, here are some more advanced options.
    1. Put inside a smaller second tube, well fitting and about 1mm shorter. It does not have to be soldered. Now you have a bearer for a faceted stone. The amount of bezel to push over is critical, as it has to be just enough to hold the stone, but not so much as to look lumpy.
    2. Make bezels for three stones, two small flanking ones and a larger middle one.
    3. It's a matter of taste, but I do think long tube settings look best on rings made from round wire, about 3mm, so you would then be into seamless tubes and setting burrs.
    Also you could then make several 2mm rings to wear together on the same finger.
    4. Then tapered bezels, bezes cut into claws, claw settings, etc. I am sure you are good enough to get all this from books. But I thoroughly recommend some electronic calipers. Try Liddl and Maplin for the cheapest, but 6 inch ones are more comfortable. Then measure twice, make once. kind regards, Dennis.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Thanks for the kind replies...
    -@Dennis : The method you describe in nr 1., thats the way i made this one, I just didn't use tube but i made it from sheet silver also with the smaller one inside. You say in nr 3. that i will be into tubes and setting burrs, isn't it possible to make them like i made this one, i would like to avoid the use of rotary tools and only use hand tools. Also i use an electronic caliper, very handy . Thanks for all the good advice, it's appreciated.

    Best regards

    Anton

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    4,812

    Default

    If you want to avoid power tools, you can always cut your bearings with a bullnose or a spitstick/onglette graver. If needed, you can tidy the seat with a setting burr held in a pin vice.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Chepstow
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    1,074

    Default

    Excellent! I think the larger stone looks good on the wider band. The 'tube' is not too high either - I sometimes think that the smaller versions (like Dennis is talking about) are made with the tube too high. I wonder if there is any 'formula' for the height of the tube, or whether it is just that I like them lower?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Winnipeg Beach Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    106

    Default

    I really like this. One thing I noticed that I love is that where your bezel and the ring shank meet there is no line. I think I will aim for this from now on.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    567

    Default

    Really nice ring
    Like the height of the bezel and love the texture - what did you use for that?
    J x

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
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    7,486

    Default More about tube setting.

    Dear Anton,
    What Peter has described is a classical method for stone setting. Unfortunately I do not feel as comfortable with gravers, so I start with a round burr and a touch of oil in a pin vice. Round burrs are very versatile as you can insert them to various depths for different diameters and being slightly oval, can also be used on their sides for a larger diameter.
    Once I am nearly there, I cut off the length of tube I need and solder it in place. Only then do I perfect it with a setting burr. The reason is that thin tubing widens a little when heated. The pin vice I use is a 999AZM Hand Vice from Cooksons. In fact I use two to save changing burrs while working.
    As for tubing, making your own, below say 4mm is a real pain, as you have to swage some sheet, draw it together and solder. Readymade tubing can still be drawn to an intermediate size in a drawplate by pinching the end flat and filing to a point. But a selection of bought pieces say 6cm long, would cover most of your needs (see the Cook Book).You would aim to have a finished rim of 0.25 to 0.3 mm to push over your stone.
    If you are ever flush with funds, consider a Bergeon cutting and filing clamp, also called chenier clamp, which holds wire, strip and tubing for filing the ends flush and all sorts of other activities including the seat cutting above. Kind regards Dennis.

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