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Thread: hello and help please

  1. #21
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    Looking forward to the movie Nic :-) Just been reading through this thread for the first time. I've only ever used ArtClay (Slow-Dry), mainly as I prefer torch-firing...but it did take a bit of getting used to at the start, I made the mistake adding too much moisture and half of it just seem to be washed away! These days I just try to work as quick as possible, and touch to clay with my hands for minimal time....I usually smear some badger balm onto a couple of small sheets of acetate, then 'sandwich' the clay between these and start rolling (using cards to determine the thickness).
    Sandra that packet you've just received sounds a bit dodgy....are you sure they didn't squash it before the sent it to you??!
    Interesting to hear the difference with PMC3, am I right in thinking you can only kiln fire this range? And did I hear that it shrinks more than Art Clay?

  2. #22
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    Thank you Nic..that would be very useful...
    maybe I shouldn't have added the water but it seemed very dry when I was trying to get it out of the inner pouch. Inside the pouch was the clay wrapped in plastic film but this had squelched out top and bottom and was stuck to the pouch. Just a mess and it was a bit crumbly. Maybe I was just a bit unlucky and being a novice I wouldn't know what it should have been like.
    But I still think I will stick (no pun intended) with PMC 3.
    I suppose I could use it to make a couple of leaves...but could you tell me, please...can I use Art Clay slip on PMC3?
    Thanks
    Sandra

  3. #23
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    A fresh batch of Art Clay should be a neat little rectangle that looks a bit like a small eraser...with the film wrapped around the outside. If I were you I'd think about complaining to whoever you bought it from, I've never had a pack that messy Sure, you can always rework any type of clay to bring it back to life, but it shouldn't be in that state when you receive it.

    I'd be wary of mixing Art Clay and PMC3....I think I did see somewhere that they are quite different, but don't quote me on that...I'm sure one of the more expert clay users will come along and answer you in a more accurate way!

  4. #24
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    The mini-vids have been uploaded into my photo-stream (am working on some PMC ones next)
    This is the Opening the Packet ~ what it should look & feel like
    here's Rolling out the Clay
    and Using a texture mat with Silver Clay.
    I'd avoid mixing the two brands of clays as the binders and shrinkage rates are slightly different.
    Nic xx
    Last edited by MuranoSilver; 17-05-2010 at 03:47 PM.
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  5. #25
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    Nice little vids :-) I'm usually a bit mean with the clay, and cut little snippets off the block as and when I need them...now I'm wondering if I should condition the whole lot before doing anything at all..and quickly wrap up and store the left over amount.
    With regards to using cutters, I learned a good little tip (can't remember where from!) but if you place a piece of cling film over the clay before you use your cutter, it serves two purposes...the clay won't get stuck to the side of the cutter, and also gives you a nice rounded edge on the top surface...of course that is a 'personal choice' thing but I think it usually looks much nicer :-)

  6. #26
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    Conditioning the block is easier than conditioning snippets but once conditioned you can still cut bits off it
    If I'm using the cutter lots then I normally spray coolslip on a saucer and then dip the cutter edge into it.
    (Which also stops the cutter sticking) never tried the cling film tip but I find the edges get curvy anyway as I use sanding pads
    Nic xx
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  7. #27
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    Where do you get coolslip from? I've never heard of it until now. I know what you mean about sanding the edges, I just find the cling film gives an instant perfectly shaped round edge, without any wastage at the sanding stage :-) This is totally down to whether the design requires it or not, of course! I tend to be a little bit too OCD-ish when it comes to perfect shapes

  8. #28
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    Coolslip is available from quite a few suppliers, I tend to get mine from Petra over at silverclay.co.uk
    (it lasts ages!)
    nic x
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  9. #29
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    PMC3 can indeed be torch fired!

    The different shrinkage rates can produce surprising and interesting effects.

    This brooch was made with a PMC3 base and the texture was made using Art Clay 650 Slow-Dry texture, then fired for 2 hours at 1650 deg F. If you look carefully you can see that the piece is slightly domed as the PMC3 base shrunk more than the Art Clay texture.


  10. #30
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    Thank you for posting these videos, Nic. ...my little square didn't come out anything like yours. As i said, a lot had oozed out from the plastic and I would say that at least 1/3rd of it was stuck to either end of the pouch. Also the pouch was crushed on the two ends so the clay was stuck in the grooves. The clay was also dryish, it wasn't at all pliable as yours appears to be. I guess I was just unlucky. But I think all I can do is use it for leaves, if I can't use it as slip for PMC 3, unless I bite the bullet and buy another 20gms to give it one more try. But is it worth it...I don't know...pricewise there doesn't appear to be a lot of difference. Any advice regarding the two brands?
    Sandra

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