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Thread: Soldering Jump Rings - a great way to learn soldering!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    North Wales
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    38

    Default

    Yes, it sticks to the tweesers/pick without you needing to 'grasp' it between tweesers (and risk it pinging off into the ether). It makes it much easier to hit the exact spot that you want the solder to flow into.

  2. #12
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    London
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    Thanks, I'll try that now. But is it good for large joins too? That is, can you place one bit of solder on, then come back in with another one once you've reheated your piece?

    The reason I ask, is that I'm thinking of doing a large join between two adjacent pieces (butting up side by side) - one silver, one copper. And I really don't want any solder to run over the surface to ruin the join. So any advice would be appreciated.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    1,293

    Angry Have I been done??

    I bought some syringe solder a year or so back (medium and easy I think) and it was like concrete...I got the shakes just trying to squeeze some out!! I can't remember who I got it from but I did ask if that was how it was supposed to be and they said yes! Needless to say...I never used it again...and went on to fusing fine silver instead!! Now people on this forum keep talking about it being the best thing since sliced bread....are you telling me that I was sold a duff lot?

  4. #14
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    Jul 2009
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    1,293

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    I guess it was winter time when I tried it out...and my 'studio' (aka garden shed) did almost get to zero at one point!! I didn't think it might be heat sensitive. ...I'll give it a go today!! Thanks for the tip Jason!

  5. #15
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    5,256

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    I've found the paste solders are a lot easier for jump ring soldering - but most of the time I just use paillons and borax anyway. They've got a far longer shelf life than the paste solder, don't need to be kept in the fridge and don't separate.

    I've seen syringe guns around for surface mount soldering - you insert the syringe full of solder paste into them, then pull the trigger to dispense a small amount. Gives a bit more control and I can't see why it might not be applicable to using this solder too.

  6. #16

    Default Fantastic

    Fantastic advice everyone, I look forward to trying these ideas.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Coventry, West Midlands
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    21

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    thanks for everyones advice. I'm a bit of a newbie at soldering (haven't done it for a few years), and just bought a book on chainmaking. There was no mention of solder paste in the book, only solder wire, but i went out and got the solder paste after reading this thread! Hopefully it turns out ok

  8. #18

    Default

    This is a total newbie question... please bear with me... but I've never done any soldering at all.... once I've soldered the jump ring can I bash it flatter?
    or do I have to bash it (Im sure there's a better word than that) and then solder it?
    This forum is SO bad (in a good way) for me, Im just supposed to be a lampworker

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,451

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fiona View Post
    This is a total newbie question... please bear with me... but I've never done any soldering at all.... once I've soldered the jump ring can I bash it flatter?
    or do I have to bash it (Im sure there's a better word than that) and then solder it?
    This forum is SO bad (in a good way) for me, Im just supposed to be a lampworker
    Hi Fiona best to bash after you solder as if you do it before you no longer have a circle and its a bugger to return it to the original form i sometimes even solder first then bash and then cut them back open if i want open bashed open jump rings lol x

  10. #20

    Default

    Thanks Jo.... see.. I warned you it was a totally newbie question

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