GETI's balls on a chain!

[mizgeorge]

What gauge wire are you using Anne? If it's 0.9mm then 3.25mm id is fine, but if it's 1.0mm, then it's too small. Byzantine is pretty AR sensitive, and really needs 3.5 give or take really not very much at all!

An AR of 3.25 will make a nice pheasible btw!

Practise your sawing on copper - if your plated wire is ferrous rather than copper cored, it will knacker your blades and be seriously hard work to cut!

[snow_imp]

I ordered my rings from the maille queen and they are listed as being 18 gauge - I used that 'cos the Plumlee book (being an american) is all done in gauges.

If I move to making my own rings they are more likely to be 1mm wire 'cos its easier to source.

Probably why my loops don't quite match my rings as the wire is 1mm and the rings are 18 gauge

The only copper wire I have right now was pulled out of the middle of some electrical wire that was going spare so it's thicker than any of the silver I use so I didn't want to practice on that right now - I thought the thickness would be a problem.

Stupid question now about the sawing of jump rings - I was just holding the coil of wire in one hand while using the saw in the other - hence the small nicks on the fingers - but also the blade kept slipping across the ring - is this really the best way to work when cutting rings?


And I'm using this smiley just 'cos I wanna see it in a message -

where do these things come from!!

[mizgeorge]

Anne, 18ga is 1mm (or 1.02 to be precise). Unfortunately, DSP's recommendation for 3.25 isn't ideal - in his latest book, he changes to 3.5 - which is the accepted AR for byzantine.

The thickness of your wire shouldn't make a difference to sawing - as long as you use the right size blade for the wire.

As for how to cut, most people find it easier to saw on a bench pin, with the coil held down firmly with your fingers. I do this sometimes, but also happily cut with the coil held in my hand. It's easiest to make one backwards stroke of the saw to get started, and once you've got a groove there, the saw should stay in the same place. You do need to make sure the blade is really tight (listen for a high 'ping' rather than a 'twang' when you check it, lubricate the blade occasionally, and keep a nice steady movement going. Try to keep the blade at enough of an angle to the coil that not too many of the teeth are in contact with the coil at a time - this helps stop the blade skittering across the coil. There are coil holding pliers available (I haven't tried them, but some people seem to like them) or you can make a little jig to hold the coil in a vice if it's easier.

It can take a while to perfect hand sawing, but really is worth it in the end!

[Solunar Silver Studio]

I don't know if this AWG to metric conversion chart would be useful to you or anyone else...conversion(1).pdf ...I can't imagine that you would see a difference between 18 gauge and 1mm with the naked eye unless you were really looking.

If it is any help to you - when I cut my jumprings I insert the saw blade through the 'tube' of the coil of wire I make and cut from the inside...then if you do slip a bit it doesn't show on the finished ring and it also means you are cutting from the inside of the curve so are less likely to slip in the first place! I also wrap a piece of low tack masking tape around the coil so that the rings all stay put in the tube shape while they are being cut and only start to bounce all over the floor when you are ready to open up the little masking tape cocoon!! Of course - if you are not a butter fingers like me that won't be a problem for you!!

[bustagasket]

Stupid question now about the sawing of jump rings - I was just holding the coil of wire in one hand while using the saw in the other - hence the small nicks on the fingers - but also the blade kept slipping across the ring - is this really the best way to work when cutting rings?

I am by no means an expert at cutting rings by hand, so feel free to correct me peoples but when i do mine i just hold them between my fingers too as i dont have a vice yet, but i certainly dont have a problem with cutting my fingers or slipping. I was just wondering if you were using the right size saw blade? The only sensation i get when i am sawing is heat from the rings, not hot hot just a warmth. I tend to have a finger across or at least against the blade as it goes back and forth, so perhaps thats why mine dont move and i dont cut my hand lol. I also make sure i use burr lube on the saw to help it glide.

Anyway as i say i am no expert but the blade size thing popped into my head so i thought i would mention it

[bustagasket]

oopsie it seems we were all typing at the same time, sorry :-s

[snow_imp]

Thanks Su, Barbara and George - I have no problem with you all providing the same/similar answers at the same time - hopefully some of the advice you've all given will make its way into the dim recesses of my mind.

George, I had noticed that Plumlee had changed the ID he used, as he appeared to also have changed to using 19 gauge wire and doing a lot of bead wrapping which I'm not interested in, so I haven't spent a lot of time with his second book. I'll check the tension I've got on the blade, I was wondering if it was loose while working.

Barbara - I like your idea with putting the saw blade inside the coil and using masking tape - I'll have to try those.

Su - I was using a 2/0 blade as suggested by George in an earlier thread, it seems to cut okay, I think I'm just all fingers and thumbs with it right now. i guess all new skills need practice

Thanks for all the help - I'll put as much as I can into practice and show the results some time.

[Solunar Silver Studio]

Just as a by the way, Anne, - if you do try cutting from the inside of the coil you do really need to do it with a bench peg (with a 'v' cut into it) or if you are really careful you can do it against the edge of a work surface (but I wouldn't advise it! ...bench peg is best!)

Just reading through the thread again I noticed you are having problems with winding jumprings. I use knitting needles as mandrels for all mine as they come in all sizes. I inherited loads from various family members but have picked them up from Charity Shops and Car Boot Sales at ridiculously low prices - as in 20p a pair...and I was even given one free because it didn't have a partner (the woman did give me a really odd look though!!). The newer metric ones are easy to size but the older ones need to be converted Yarn Forward - Needle Conversion Chart (You need to double check some of the UK sizes with calipers though as it isn't always a direct conversion). I now have a complete set from 2 - 8mm and they have been really useful!!

[snow_imp]

Thanks Barbara

Hm, I don't have a bench peg right now, so maybe I won't play with cutting from the inside for now.

I've managed to source a load of knitting needles from my mum recently - including a 2 mm one, although I'm not quite sure what I'll use that size for!

[Di Sandland]

Anne - Cookson's bench peg costs £9.99 and is the best £9.99 you'll ever spend. You won't believe how it widens the scope of what you are able to do - and it makes those tiresome jobs less so