Cutting Solder

**ben b** · 16-10-2009, 02:43 PM

im used to using gold solder, in oblong sheets, so of course it does sound a bit odd when i say cut down it lengthways, as easy silver solder comes in quite a narrow strip!

It will widen out, after rolling or hammering thinner, but even then, you will probably just get two strips out of it length wise, so you'd probably just cut it down the middle lengthwise in reality!

the medium and hard will be wider, so after rolling or hammering it thinner, you would get about 3 to five thin strips.

**Boo** · 22-10-2009, 11:19 AM

I knew there was something I wanted to follow up on. I ran out of cut solder yesterday, so tried this technique and it worked a treat - thank you. I hadn't been using snips previously - so the idea of cutting narrow strips lengthwise had never even occurred to me.

I hammered my medium solder as thin as I could (started 0.7 x 1.5mm) without deafening my neighbour - about an inch or so at a time and then snipped it lengthways - managed 4 strips out of one length - 2 or 3 the rest.

One of the problems I've had in the past is that when you chop it small, it can fly off at speed and impale itself in flesh, I've drawn blood a few times - the shards are like razor blades.

So I put the snips and solder strips inside a large clear plastic bag and held the end of the solder from the outside through the plastic and snipped away at the strips. I just jiggled the little bits to a corner and tipped them out. The sizes came out a little random and variable - which is ideal - I can choose the right amount for each task. I tend to ball it before placement usually anyway - I find it easier to judge the total solder volume from a uniform sphere. I melt several at a time and choose the one I want.

Thanks for the help - I'll be happy if I can save some clean up time for excess solder.

**jetlag** · 22-10-2009, 07:00 PM

So the smaller, the better? Makes sense really, I guess, as it will flow sooner?

**Boo** · 22-10-2009, 08:30 PM

The purpose of the solder is to cause the two sides of the join to adhere to each other - not to 'glue' them together by filling the gap between them. To get a really good strong clean join, the bulk of your work is in preparing the surfaces. You shouldn't be able to see any daylight through them - the physical join should be as tight as it can be before soldering. If I put the piece down and then can't find where the join is, I know I did a reasonably good job. The solder runs between the surfaces of the join by capillary action, it won't flow into an open space between them.

If you prepare the join right, you actually then need very little solder to make a good connection - it should only be a hairs breadth of visible of solder when done. If you use too much, it flows over the outer surface or clumps around the join - which then needs cleaning off.

So it's always better to do the work beforehand preparing your piece with a really clean flush join and using just enough solder, rather than on clean up afterwards.

**amazingbabe** · 22-10-2009, 08:42 PM

Why does'nt everyone use solder paste ?? i think its the bees knees !!! Am i missing something with this solder pallion cutting game?? Is it just a preference thing ??

**Boo** · 22-10-2009, 08:52 PM

I'm going to try paste when funds allow (I've asked about it here for this reason) - but the difference in price is considerable - and it's somewhere I can save a little on outlay in difficult times. I can buy enough silver for several pieces for the price of one tube of paste.

**amazingbabe** · 22-10-2009, 08:55 PM

I personally could'nt imagine using anything else boo, i know the price is higher but it last for ages and is much much quicker xx

**Boo** · 22-10-2009, 09:06 PM

I don't doubt it's value - in terms of how far it goes and the potential time saving when working - but I just can't justify the initial outlay at the moment - my husband has been out of work earlier this year, so I'm having to work frugally just now.

**jetlag** · 22-10-2009, 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by Boo

The purpose of the solder is to cause the two sides of the join to adhere to each other - not to 'glue' them together by filling the gap between them. To get a really good strong clean join, the bulk of your work is in preparing the surfaces. You shouldn't be able to see any daylight through them - the physical join should be as tight as it can be before soldering. If I put the piece down and then can't find where the join is, I know I did a reasonably good job. The solder runs between the surfaces of the join by capillary action, it won't flow into an open space between them.

If you prepare the join right, you actually then need very little solder to make a good connection - it should only be a hairs breadth of visible of solder when done. If you use too much, it flows over the outer surface or clumps around the join - which then needs cleaning off.

So it's always better to do the work beforehand preparing your piece with a really clean flush join and using just enough solder, rather than on clean up afterwards.

That makes sense. Thanks

**Emerald** · 22-10-2009, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by amazingbabe

I personally could'nt imagine using anything else boo, i know the price is higher but it last for ages and is much much quicker xx

I guess i am old fashioned but i am more than happy with using my pallions of solder and borax its all very well buying stuff that is supposed to help but it dont half increase the price of your items x