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Thread: Help with designing stone setting provisions on CAD for Signet Ring.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    1

    Default Help with designing stone setting provisions on CAD for Signet Ring.

    Hi everyone,

    I am a newbie and this is my first post. I am a newbie and I am trying to make my own signet ring.

    I am currently working with a CAD jewellery designer with my design and when the design is good, will have it casted. I want to signet ring to be round on the top to hold a 9mm round flat stone either Onyx or Blue Agate. Said stone will be no more than 1.5mm thick. The ring head with the stone set to be no more than 3mm in thickness. And I would prefer if the stone is set on the ring by rubover/roman setting and not glue or a combo is good too.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My questions are which I hope you can provide help with.

    Should use a stone that is flat on the top with straight edges on the side?

    Should I instead look for a stone that has a slight single bevel? I suppose the diameter on the top of the stone will roughly be 9mm and the bottom/back would be 10mm?

    Will rubover/roman setting method be suitable either of these stones?

    How do I design the bezel/seat where the stone will be dropped in? How thick should the bezel wall be? Can I get away with 0.5mm to 0.75mm wall effectively making the diameter of top of the ring 10 to 10.5mm?

    How high should the bezel walls be? For Roman/Rubover setting, should it be same height as the thickness of the stone?

    I can then let the CAD designer, design it in for the casting, easier for the stone setter to set the gemstone.

    If I want to make the Blue Agate appear as dark blue/navy, should I mix in jet black airfix paint with expoxy glue, to glue the stone before the setting so that it darkens the stone?

    Do you have any recommendations on good stone setters and gem cutters in London?

    Apologies for the many questions. I hope you can help. Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Manchester UK
    Posts
    871

    Default

    You usually pick the stone first then design the ring around that. Your measurements are from the stone and make the sizes to fit that .You do not usually use glue on the stone to set it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    5,135

    Default

    TBH, if you're working with a jewellery designer they should be able to guide you on all of this.
    It sounds somewhat like you're trying to run before you can walk, I'm afraid.

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