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Thread: Jewellery Designer 3d to casting experience needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    Default Jewellery Designer 3d to casting experience needed

    So first of all, hi to everyone in here.:-)
    I just signed up and try to ask respectfully for some support hoping to not offend anyone with maybe trivial or too basic questions.
    The main reason is I have a befriended goldsmith with some very big ego and it's pretty hard to ask her anything without immediately getting the sh*t from her for asking.

    So i designed multiple pieces of Rings like signet rings and then usually handed them over to the goldsmith for polishing work and some soldering.
    But now im trying to create my unique engagement ring piece and apparently I have some missunderstandings with the diamond setting after casting.

    So the issue is: my goldsmith is telling me I can't 3d print -> cast a diamond set ring because it wouldn't allow her to polish the the casting remains without increasing the size of the diamond cut outs. But that to me that negates the whole purpose of using 3d software to develop these complicated settings like french settings etc.

    I hope I'm making sense.

    Best and thanks for any knowledge shared.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    South Australia
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    Default

    You will need to allow extra material to be removed when you print the item

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by china View Post
    You will need to allow extra material to be removed when you print the item
    So is there like a common rule of how much ? like if you want to set 0,3 carat stones u actually cast 0,25 carat cut outs?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    It depends on the stone setter but your friend is correct you need to allow enough metal so the seats etc can be cut.
    https://assets.stullercloud.com/web/...nStandards.pdf
    here are some pointers. Cad software is great for designing jewellery but like any tool there is a learning curve to doing this. It defiantly helps if you are a jeweller before you use CAD.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by josef1 View Post
    It depends on the stone setter but your friend is correct you need to allow enough metal so the seats etc can be cut.
    https://assets.stullercloud.com/web/...nStandards.pdf
    here are some pointers. Cad software is great for designing jewellery but like any tool there is a learning curve to doing this. It defiantly helps if you are a jeweller before you use CAD.
    Not knowing anything about CAD find it helps to have some knowledge of jewellery making before designing so that you know what is possible or can be achieved with a bit of tweaking. It’s partly why I don’t take commissions because I can’t cope with customers saying I want you to make this and not willing to believe it isn’t possible

  6. #6
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    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by josef1 View Post
    It depends on the stone setter but your friend is correct you need to allow enough metal so the seats etc can be cut.
    here are some pointers. Cad software is great for designing jewellery but like any tool there is a learning curve to doing this. It defiantly helps if you are a jeweller before you use CAD.
    It's a bit strange that the CAD software like matrixgold woudln't already account for casting remains in the design process.
    I looked at the guidelines but it doesnt seem to address this. Like stating that you would need to use 0,25 cutouts for 0,3 stones after cleaning remains.

  7. #7
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    Why? You might mill directly in the metal. You might mill a wax. You might print the result. You might not use CAM at all, but build the model to render for the customer then hand-make.

    All of these require different design decisions. Design For Manufacture (and DRC) are things I encourage people to learn.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Manchester UK
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    As I said It helps if your a jeweller before you do this then you know what sort of clearances you need, The computer just does as its told by the person. Setters have different styles and way they prefer things making, metal has different shrinkages and stones are different sizes for the weight so unless you standardise everything it wouldn't work. Also remember Matrix isn't made by jewellers. I make stone cutters 80% of the size of the stone on smaller stuff if that helps but you need to cad with stones 3% bigger to allow a bit of clearance. Unfortunately there is no easy button. Ive been using CAD for longer than I care to remember now and I'm still find things out but it's worth the learning curve just takes a while.

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