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Thread: Vertical drill/stands

  1. #1
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    Default Vertical drill/stands

    Good afternoon. I am on the cadge for advice as ever! I wonder what you experienced and professional people use. I have a dreaded Dremel unit with a vertical drill stand. Apart from the lack of progressive speed control the vertical stand is a bit “hit and miss”. I also find it difficult to load the drill bit so it revolves perfectly round its vertical axis. Invariably it has a slight wobble which makes precise drilling impossible. I have had to drill undersize then broach out the hole using my horological broaches. This is hard work as these broaches are made to cut brass but struggle with the softer silver.


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Depends on the use I have a watch makers sensitive drill press for small drills up to about 4mm I also have a large drill press in the shed with will take from 2mm to 16mm and has 16 speeds,
    I gave on Dremel stuff when it was sold and it just became junk. I believe the small Proxxon units have a good reputation for a reasonable price.
    Last edited by china; 29-01-2021 at 03:06 PM.

  3. #3
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    Feb 2016
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    East Anglian
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    Default Vertical drill/stands

    Thanks so much for your advice. My woodworking vertical bench drill 5mm to 35 plus mm would be just “a little bit over the top”! I will look into the Proton unit.


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  4. #4
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    I have had a wee proxxon for a few years now having originally drilled everything by hand. I don’t know what I would do without it now but the price seems more expensive than I remember. Buy a universal chuck for it as the chucks provided are fiddly and don’t go down small enough for my purposes. The wobble just means you haven’t got it centred which can happen with small drills even on the proxxon so I just run it quickly to make sure by eye before I start drilling

  5. #5
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    Feb 2016
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    East Anglian
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    Again thanks for your info. Even after giggling the bit around repeatedly it still wobbles. Either the drive is worn or the universal bit is worn.


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  6. #6
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    Ok bare in mind is is 2.30 am And should be away with fairies, I meant to say "Proxxon" I will go back and fix it

  7. #7
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    Go back to sleep! Thanks


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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruedeleglise View Post
    Good afternoon. I am on the cadge for advice as ever! I wonder what you experienced and professional people use. I have a dreaded Dremel unit with a vertical drill stand. Apart from the lack of progressive speed control the vertical stand is a bit “hit and miss”. I also find it difficult to load the drill bit so it revolves perfectly round its vertical axis. Invariably it has a slight wobble which makes precise drilling impossible. I have had to drill undersize then broach out the hole using my horological broaches. This is hard work as these broaches are made to cut brass but struggle with the softer silver.


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    I've been led to believe that the most popular Hobby pillar drills are all one and the same ( and Chinese)
    I'm thinking about one of these

    https://www.google.com/search?q=seal...hrome&ie=UTF-8

    https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/Si...xoCSd0QAvD_BwE

  9. #9
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    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    No, all those drills are too big, too noisy, too wobbly, and simply no good for jewellery making.
    What you need is the smaller Proxxon TBM220, Preferably with the addition of the optional three jaw chuck.
    The speed is determined by moving the concealed belt onto different pullies. Mine is setup to run at its lowest speed for everything, and has been like that for more than twenty years.
    https://www.axminstertools.com/proxx...h-drill-702060
    You also need a block of wood under your piece to minimise spinning when drilling through, or use a drill vice. Dennis

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    No, all those drills are too big, too noisy, too wobbly, and simply no good for jewellery making.
    What you need is the smaller Proxxon TBM220, Preferably with the addition of the optional three jaw chuck.
    The speed is determined by moving the concealed belt onto different pullies. Mine is setup to run at its lowest speed for everything, and has been like that for more than twenty years.
    https://www.axminstertools.com/proxx...h-drill-702060
    You also need a block of wood under your piece to minimise spinning when drilling through, or use a drill vice. Dennis
    Depends on what you intend to make and what size you categorise jewellery as.
    I'm not going to be running it for hours and so noise isn't an issue.
    The machines I've looked at have rated very well for the accuracy of drilling.

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