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Octagon stone Frame setting.
Hi 😊
I have a Octagon stone to set , I usually make the inner bearing separate but wondering about making the setting then using a bearing cutting tool to cut the ledge ( could be less time consuming that trying to make the inner part!)but haven’t set this shape before or tried free hand burring round the edge . But it’s something I would like to try but a practice run in silver before doing the gold setting! Any advice welcome 😊
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Yes, but to do that it is best to start with a curved strip, with an outside diameter of about 8 cm, but not critical. This will give you a tapered collet which will need a minimal bearer.
They are not easy to make, but best marked out using three dividers, so that you can keep each separate setting. The join is best on one of the long sides, not one of the angles.
If your finances are up to it, then finally make it perfect by using a collet plate.
Once made in a cheap metal like copper, you can also determine the ideal height, cut it again, flatten it, and use it as a template. Dennis.
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Many thanks Dennis for spending the time to answer my question, can I ask do you think it’s better to make two settings that fit inside each other?
Thanks for the tips about the join as I wouldn’t have thought about putting it there or a copper template.
The way things are at the moment I might have to pass on a collect set for now. I always intend to get some one day but not sure what shapes I’d use the most.
Is this what you mean by a curve strip?
Thanks again ��
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Yes, just as in the diagram.
If you use a curved strip there is no need to make a separate bearer. Because of the resulting funnel shape a careful setter could even manage without cutting a ledge, but it helps to have a slight one made with a burr , or a scorper.
You can also use a straight strip, as at the top of the picture. That is when a strip within comes into play. The setting with straight sides is less elegant and can look quite bulky around an emerald cut stone. Dennis.
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Thanks Dennis for your advice ,so far so good with the copper template .
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God, well I hope you succeed. It is probably the most difficult collet to make, so people often use claws to avoid it. Dennis.
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