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Thread: What’s the easiest bezel setting for a faceted octogan?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    7

    Default What’s the easiest bezel setting for a faceted octogan?

    Morning,

    A question that kept me awake last night....what’s the easiest bezel setting for a faceted octogan?

    Long story short - I have to set a (11x9mm) quite deep faceted octogan into a bezel setting for my sister’s birthday present. Having been a newbie jeweller for only 5 months my family seem to think I can do this...I’m definitely not so sure but I shall give it my best shot.

    I have set cabachons before so am comfortable with flat bottomed stones but never a faceted one. Last night I spent hours searching for tips on how to do it and I found a step setting technique but the only examples were for circular or oval stones. Would this work for an octogan too?

    Or any other ideas for an easy way?

    A million thanks
    Emmy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    I started a reply but deleted it, need some more information to give any responsible advice.
    11mm x 9mm is that oval shaped or is that diameter and depth, I am guessing diameter and depth
    is it a hard stone, soft stone, bezel setting may not be the way to go.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    7

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    Hi China,

    I've put a photo of it below. It's 11x9mm top surface and I think it's about 5.5mm deep (I'm not at home right now so can't measure depth accurately).
    It's a green beryl which I think is pretty soft isn't it?

    I need to create a replica of the second pic (middle ring). I made that lot for myself and my sister really wants exactly the same - except I can't find a flat bottomed pale green stone this time which is why I've had to go for this faceted one. And preferably I've got to bezel it so it's as close to my one as possible.

    I'm happy to give anything a go! But the easiest solution the better

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    7,546

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    They are difficult to make as a beginner. For one thing they look best slightly tapered. Then you need two divider settings to score the strip and try as you might they end up slightly wonky, unless you have an octagonal bezel plate to correct them.

    So, it is far easier to have four claws, one at each corner. That said, you should find some U Tube tutorials for setting emerald cut (or octagonal) stones.

    Dennis.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,094

    Default

    Embo thanks for that, I will try to help, that type of stone does not really lend itself to bezel setting, however in can be done, personally I would go for a claw setting.
    to make a bezel setting for that stone first you need to construct the bezel the same shape and size as the stone and high enough to give a little extra for burnishing edge over, solder the base on and finish to match,
    then you will need to make another bezel to fit inside the first but only tall enough to support the edge of the stone so it does not touch base and solder it in place.
    then solder to the ring and clean and polish, sit the stone inside and burnish the edge in the normal way. It will look more chunky than your example.
    Don't jump into it I'm sure some other members will come along with other solutions.

    Have a look here https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...rald+cut+stone
    Last edited by china; 05-02-2020 at 12:22 PM.

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