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Thread: Optivisors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    East Anglian
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    124

    Default Optivisors

    Yet again, more advice please from you experienced knowledgable people!
    As I am making more and more pieces, some parts very small, I need better magnification than the rather crude set up I have at present. I would really appreciate some advice on types, makes and magnification. After all Christmas is just round the corner!


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruedeleglise View Post
    Yet again, more advice please from you experienced knowledgable people!
    As I am making more and more pieces, some parts very small, I need better magnification than the rather crude set up I have at present. I would really appreciate some advice on types, makes and magnification. After all Christmas is just round the corner!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I treated myself to a 2.5 Oftivisor recently and it has transformed how I work. If only I had bought one much earlier. Put one at the top of your wish list!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    Default

    The simplest solution is to use a head band magnifier, which will work with prescription glasses too.
    While the most common one in jewellery workshops is the Optivisor, they are quite heavy and sweaty in warm weather.

    I can unreservedly recommend this one, the 4x (not the 2.5), used by dentists and dental technicians, which is much lighter in weight and will not tire your eyes even with long periods of use.

    Obviously they collect splashes and metal filings, which can score the resin lenses, so they should not be cleaned with a cloth, bur rather with soap or detergent using a soft make-up bush.

    https://www.bfmulholland.com/protect...54-each-p11110 Dennis

  4. #4
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    Jul 2009
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    Romsey
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    Default

    What's the focal distance like on the one you're using, Dennis?
    I like the 2.5x Optivisor, but... I have to be very careful about posture given the short focal distance - it's not good to hunch over a piece to keep it in focus. I want these new vertebral discs to last a while.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Well as you see Peter, I recommend the 4x, and the working distance from bridge of nose to the workpiece is about 20cm, or 8".
    To avoid hunching, I lower the chair, but it might still not suit you if you are very tall. Dennis.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    East Anglian
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    Default

    Well have made my choice and posted my request to Santa....thanks as always for your advices.


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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Scotland
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    Default

    I must admit I would like more distance so that I’m not so hunched

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
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    Romsey
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    Well as you see Peter, I recommend the 4x, and the working distance from bridge of nose to the workpiece is about 20cm, or 8".
    To avoid hunching, I lower the chair, but it might still not suit you if you are very tall. Dennis.
    I drop the chair & put the bench pin up higher when that's what I need, but for pitchbowl work it's less feasible - everything needs to be ergonomically placed.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Manchester UK
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    672

    Default

    If you put longer screws in the lens and lock them in place with bolts I used pcb stand offs in the picture. You can move the lens away from the visor and adjust the focal length . It dosent look the best but I never really managed to impress the ladys with the optivisor look anyway so I though whay not!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
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    Default

    Might be worth a go - I've got a fair few PCB standoffs knocking about.
    The bruising round the eyes from leaning on a scope isn't a great look either...

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