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Thread: Creative stonesetting by John Cogswell

  1. #1
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    Default Creative stonesetting by John Cogswell

    Hi everyone, thought I would write a quick post about creative Stonesetting by John Cogswell. I wanted to buy a book on Stonesetting as general jewellery books and internet sources just don't have enough detail to answer my questions when I'm unable to go to a class. Saw this one mentioned on a forum post a while back. It's no longer in print but I got mine second hand from Amazon. So far it looks really good with a really detailed chapter on bezel setting. I had been wondering how fitted your stone needs to be. My 8mm carnelian cab has a very tiny bit of side to side movement in it's bezel ring. Looks like I'm going to have to saw the join and resolder

  2. #2
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    Yes, the better the fit the neater and easier it will be to set, don't try to save time in adjusting the bezel to perfect before setting
    I have the book but tbh aside from a few tips stone setting is really mostly about practise.

  3. #3
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    A frequent problem for beginners is that when they try a stone into a bezel cup, they cant get it out again. The better the fit the more likely it is to happen.
    There are two possible tricks to rescue the situation, but it helps to leave the back plate untrimmed so that you have something to grip.

    1. Lay a long piece of dental floss across the bezel cup before inserting the stone. Then it can be yanked out again.

    2. Apply a piece of strong adhesive tape to the stone, such as that for hanging pictures, or the one called No More Nails. Allow five minutes for the adhesion to work and then yank sharply. It' best to use surplus tape, so as to form a handle. Dennis.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by enigma View Post
    Yes, the better the fit the neater and easier it will be to set, don't try to save time in adjusting the bezel to perfect before setting
    I have the book but tbh aside from a few tips stone setting is really mostly about practise.
    I take it you mean, 'make sure it's perfect' before you go to set?

  5. #5
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    Thanks Dennis I've been using the floss technique already but hadn't heard of the other one. That could come in use

  6. #6
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    That was decidedly poor English wasn't it?
    It won't let me edit now but yes, what I meant to say was don't try to save time by NOT getting the bezel perfect before setting.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for clarifying enigma my instinct was to make it perfect (i'm a terrible perfectionist) but at the same time sometimes it's good to know if you can actually be a bit sloppy.

  8. #8
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    You can but it will then take longer to set and you will struggle to get a perfect finish.
    The more perfect the bezel when the stone goes in the more chance you have of getting a beautiful finish with perfectly smooth edges when it's set.

  9. #9
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    If it's a tiny bit of "side to side" movement when your stone is in the bezel (at this stage, whilst you're testing for fit) you might find that once it's actually set and bezel pushed down and burnished that there's no discernible movement or rattle. You won't know until you've done it. And if there is discernible movement, you'll know how much or little movement you're happy with.
    For me, before I solder a bezel to the backplate I like the stone to be able to pass through fairly easily - then once it's soldered down the stone should go in easily using the dental floss to be able to get it out so that I can check that the bezel height is where I want it. If it's still too high then I like to be able to get the stone out without too much wrangling and potentially breaking/slicing the floss. Ask me how I know that that can happen ��
    For me, a little bit of side to side is either ok or too much - but I only know how much is too much because I've thought, "Ah! That's okay!" and then it's been rattling once it's been set. But, a good burnish down and the rattle is gone. You just have to try it out and see what happens really.

  10. #10
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    But if there is no movement before you start pushing the metal over then you won't risk having movement when it's finished.
    You do need to be able to get it in and out though so don't try and force it in.

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