Ring shoulders

[Richard]

I would like to make a ring where the shoulders taper up to the setting, but I cannot find any guides as to how this is done. The only one of my books which even mentions it just says "stretch with hammer" but that doesn't make sense to me as the taper has *more* metal than the rest of the band, so how would stretching work????


Please could anyone give me some advice, a link, or suggest a book where I can learn more?

Thank you

[Dennis]

There is not much information here, but if by taper you mean 'gets narrower', then make the plain ring shank to the right size first.
Anneal, so that it does not spring open when you cut it. Cut a piece out to accept the setting. Thin the ends with a file and solder in the setting.

[Richard]

Hello Dennis,

Thanks for your reply. I think I see what you mean about filing, but perhaps I wasn't clear what I meant, so here is a picture of something similar to what I mean:



As well as filing the shoulders, presumably I have to hammer them to flatten as well? What sort of hammer does one use for this?

But what I would really like to understand is how to create is something like this:



Both as shown, and without the gaps between the shank and the arches. I did read somewhere on the internet that this part is made separately then soldered in, then the setting soldered into that, but as I mentioned I can't find any information on how to actually do it...

thanks
Richard

[Dennis]

Hi Richard, that is a well known and elegant shape, the knife edge shank, made with clean and shiny planishing hammer on a smooth and shiny steel bench block.

https://www.cooksongold.com/Jeweller...mer&channel=uk

One way is to start with round, or oval wire, make the shank, cut it and flatten the ends. then file the ends to fit your setting. There will be a bit of tapping on a mandrel and checking with a ring stick to get the size right.

Several goes with say 1.7mm, or 2mm round copper wire will teach you how to do it Dennis.