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Thread: 3.5mm stone too small for “3.40” setting...?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
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    34

    Default 3.5mm stone too small for “3.40” setting...?

    Hi, so I’m attempting my first gold setting with diamonds.
    The diamonds I have are exactly 3.5mm so I ordered the 15pt double gallery earring settings from Cookson as it states they can take a 3.40mm Stone.
    My issue is when I drop the 3.5mm stone in it doesn’t even touch the prongs when sat, like the stone is too small.
    I’ve only recently got into stone setting and it doesn’t seem too technical, am I missing something here with the size though?
    if it states the setting takes a 3.4mm Stone is it standard that you should have to grind the seat down some untill the stone fits?
    It could be possible that my 3.5mm stone would fit if I grind the seat right down to nearly nothing as the space gets tighter the further down you go. I don’t want to go so far down that I end up with no double gallery though. :/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Central London
    Posts
    7,492

    Default

    This is a recurring problem with bought in settings. I don't use them myself, but a way out is to buy the setting first and keep a selection of CZs to try in.
    That way you can determine what size diamonds to order. Dennis.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    1,054

    Default

    As said above, manufactured settings are made to a price and tolerance no two are ever the same, the best solution is to make your own

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Oh...that’s a bummer. It should state on the info if there’s a tolerance (like it does for some other things) if that’s the case.
    I’d like to learn to make them myself but unfortunately I don’t have the time to.
    Will have to see if I can make it work then.
    Thanks for the replies guys.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    2,062

    Default

    Agree with the above but also to say that yes, you do always have to adjust the setting for the individual stone too.
    The most annoying one I bought was an 18ct white setting for a 5mm stone that was WAY too small and impossible to fit no matter what you did.
    Mostly I just make my own now.

  6. #6
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    Dec 2009
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    Central London
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    In addition, I would recommend that if you can find the same in silver, you experiment with that to explore the possibilities, before committing to gold. Dennis.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    One thing to note if you do as Dennis suggests is that the claws are much longer on the silver ones allowing more margin for setting.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    34

    Default

    I made some silver earrings with cheap emeralds first, they came out ok and the size was fine.
    Unfortunately I made the absolutely silly mistake of starting to notch the 9ct setting BEFORE dropping the diamond in to see how the sizing was (got a bit too excited).
    I like a challenge so I’ll try and make it work, it’s not looking too bad I think. I’ll try and upload a detailed photo when finished.
    Here’s a question...what do you use to polish up the metal?
    I used red ruche but I leaves residue in all the little corners and didn’t really work on the side of the seat very well, prongs came up fine.
    Thanks for the replies and info.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Romsey
    Posts
    4,814

    Default

    Needle files & silicone wheels if I've understood correctly what you're asking.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    34

    Default

    I’ve never used the silicone wheels before, just mops with various polishing compounds. Do they leave any residue?
    I’ve been using a grade 4 knife edge needle to clean it up too.

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