Brilliant Nic! I've JUST finished a necklace for my brother's girlfriend and have made end caps from tube and domed circles. It was made from 0.5mm wire, 'single weave' on 5 spokes around a 7mm plastic dowel
*. I also practiced a 'double weave' on 5 spokes around the dowel and it was much stiffer, but a better texture (will post pics tomorrow). The single weave I managed to get through a 3mm hole (althought I am using a piece of softwood so the hole has enlarged slightly after a few uses - that's why the drawplate should be hardwood), and the double through a 4mm hole. Both weaves doubled in length.
(
*When I taught viking weave to my class I gave them hexagonal unsharpened pencils to use (a cheap option - £1 pack of 10 pencils), which I won't do again as some of the students pulled the wire quite tight and the wire bit' into the pencil so it took ages to wiggle the weaves off the pencils
All the effort was worth it though to see the look on their faces when even the most uneven, loopy, twisted weaves came out of the drawplate transformed)
Thank you for that photo tutorial link - it has another method of adding wire that I haven't seen before. The tutorial I learnt from is
Vikingknit Directions, and have since written my own for my class, but I have never been entirely happy with the way I add the wire as sometimes you get an obvious 'double stitch' (well
I can see it!) so will try the 'twisting wire join' next time.
This is my 1000th post!!
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