Many thanks Peter for the pics. I have been doing something similar with my stake, but my piece of copper doesn't look anything like your bangle haha At least I know what to aim for now.
Off to have a play...
Many thanks Peter for the pics. I have been doing something similar with my stake, but my piece of copper doesn't look anything like your bangle haha At least I know what to aim for now.
Off to have a play...
Jules
Peter, are you still selling your anticlastic stakes? I've not been on the forum for far too long, I'm afraid, circumstances have not been good lately!
Mel
Web: www.spinysharklythings.com
Blog: www.spinysharklythings.com/blog
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SpinySharklyThings
I've still got a few large on hand, I've not made any small ones in an age.
Fabulous, can I buy direct from you or would you prefer I do it via Etsy?
Mel
Web: www.spinysharklythings.com
Blog: www.spinysharklythings.com/blog
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SpinySharklyThings
Hmm, do it direct or pay Etsy commission... Decisions, decisions
Hi Peter,
With the help of your previous posts (many thanks) and a lot of copper practice pieces I finally plucked up courage to make up a couple of silver anticlastic bangles.
Have attached a couple of photos although the attachment process didn't seem to go too well so not sure if they'll send.
A couple of questions though:
- What is the purpose of soldering the joint then cutting it open and resoldering? I've heard from others that this is good practice but don't quite understand the advantage to the jointing process
- The anticlastic raising process seems to stretch the joint such that even after polishing and ultrasonic cleaning, I can't seem to entirely 'hide' the joint on a polished piece. Any ideas on how to improve this?
- To get my bangles hot enough to melt hard solder and subsequent repeat annealing involves a fair amount of time under the torch (mine is a Sievert which looks similar to yours) so I repeatedly coated them with Argotect to protect from firestain. Do you get any problem with firestain on your larger pieces or am I just being overcautious?
As an aside, although I have access to a nice delrin stake at my teacher's workshop, at home I've found an old hardwood lamp standard with some nice curved profiles on it which serves very well for the moment!
All the best
Tim
I'll often run a saw through joints before soldering to make sure the edges match; if it's something like a ring, the metal is stiff enough to hold still while cutting, but with something like this, the ends flex more than I can be bothered with so I effectively tack them together to stop them moving.
I've not had this, so I'm not sure. Perhaps leave cleaning the solder joint up until after the forming is complete? It may depend on how close-fitting the joint is at soldering time.- The anticlastic raising process seems to stretch the joint such that even after polishing and ultrasonic cleaning, I can't seem to entirely 'hide' the joint on a polished piece. Any ideas on how to improve this?
YES! Definitely use Argotect or a firestain-resistant silver. Boxing the item in with firebricks will help shorten the time at temperature.- To get my bangles hot enough to melt hard solder and subsequent repeat annealing involves a fair amount of time under the torch (mine is a Sievert which looks similar to yours) so I repeatedly coated them with Argotect to protect from firestain. Do you get any problem with firestain on your larger pieces or am I just being overcautious?
Whatever works! I've laid out a new batch of small stakes finally, need to get them cut out. I was looking at having them profiled by waterjet, but the prices I got back didn't make a huge amount of sense against the time it takes me to do a batch.As an aside, although I have access to a nice delrin stake at my teacher's workshop, at home I've found an old hardwood lamp standard with some nice curved profiles on it which serves very well for the moment!
Many thanks for the advice Peter.
Good point about cleaning the joint after forming although I guess the inside of the curve will require more patience.
Regarding your own stakes, presumably they are a small batch in Delrin? No doubt most HP waterjet companies are looking for large batches but Safire seem to advertise one offs and prototypes if you haven't already approached them.
Havent worked out yet how to copy/paste links on this forum yet but they will show up with a simple Google search
Tim
Hadn't tried Safire; I'll give them a call, thanks. The last quote I got, the cutting + the material costs came almost to the amount I've been selling them at, but they'd still need sculpting and finishing by me.
I'd be interested to know how you get on with Safire if you care to post or PM once you've had a reply.
Looking at the prices you've charged in the past any 'on cost' is going to be difficult to deal with. Unless of course you go into large scale production.
Tim
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