Ooh, I didn't know there was an enamel shop at Launceston! Have car will travel ;-) Now I've started talking about it to other 'interested' peeps I am dead excited!
Ooh, I didn't know there was an enamel shop at Launceston! Have car will travel ;-) Now I've started talking about it to other 'interested' peeps I am dead excited!
Di x
thanks James x
Di x
Are you enamelling on sterling or fine silver? It sounds as if you have fire stain which occurs if the surface is not well protected during annealing or soldering. Really, I find that you need to use nitric to clean the surface to reveal a layer of fine silver, if it has been subjected to heat at all. You could presumably otherwise use depletion building but I haven't actually tried that myself. Generally, I don't solder the piece until after enamelling. Then findings can be successfully soldered to the back using hard solder and supporting the piece by its edges. You need to be quick and confident with the torch. I leave the piece to air cool before pickling. With hard solder it is possible to refire the piece if necessary. I often protect the solder joint with typists correction fluid. The silver from Cooksons is supplied annealed so can be successfully shaped without any further annealing. Enamelled jewellery is all about designing the piece to minimise soldering and to ensure that solder and enamel don't have contact with each other.
We all started somewhere and generally our members are really supportive and encouraging of first efforts.
Balls only do unleaded, but they are great for liquid enamels. Personally I use Vitrum Signum and have done for many years. They are very helpful on the phone. There is also Milton Bridge that do there own range. I have some to try out as I met the owner earlier this year. He explained that the reason colours change, is often because of European directives saying they can't use an ingredient any more so they have to come up with a new recipe without it. He was very helpful too.
Reds are very tricky on silver in particular. They work best on gold because they are gold bearing. My best ones are Japanese but I'm not sure that they are still available. I use them very sparingly. I use hard solder rather than enamelling because it is much nicer to use and usually ok even when the piece has to go back in the kiln. Sometimes I might use medium if I am sure I won't need to refire.
Bookmarks