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  1. #1
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    Default Give to me some critic

    Many my ideas comes from what I see. Is this too clumsy?What You Think?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2.jpg   4.jpg   5.jpg   3.jpg   1.jpg  


  2. #2
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    It's difficult to tell the scale without it being modelled - static, it doesn't look too clumsy to me, but it would be better to see it in situ.

    I'm trying to work out if I like the leaves meeting in opposition (like a wreath), or if I'd prefer them all in the same direction, like ivy... I'd personally go for putting a small amount of veining in with a narrow punch, but that's just my preference.

  3. #3
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    I would agree with Peter, the leaves need some veining to give them life. I did a short photo tutorial about how I shape a leaf on the GOJD site, take a look.
    http://www.guildofjewellerydesigners.co.uk/ and do a search for "Making a Metal Leaf"
    James

  4. #4
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    I keep meaning to ask you James - what do you use as a barrier between your lead blocks & the work when you're punching?

  5. #5
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    Peter, I usually don't use anything between the work and the lead block, I have three lead blocks and I keep re melting them so that they stay fresh. The trouble with lead blocks usually starts when a block is used too much and the surface starts flaking, but I find that regular re melting keeps the surface of mine soft and usable.
    I always clean any items with my scratch brush before any annealing though, just in case I miss any possible lead flakes on the job as we all know what happens when you anneal a job with lead on it.

  6. #6
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    Thank You for Your input Peter and James. I appreciate Your opinions. In same time I see that my finger was again faster than my brain. For future works I must do couple of punches,hammers and engravers because I belive that way I can find my tools soul.
    James, I raise my hat for You. I read Your interview from Gojd site too. Can I give You an tiny seed to think as You are talented in photography also. Maybe You can make some video tutorials. I know that videos cant ever teach so much as Master by Your side but it can help.

  7. #7
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    I'm not sure that reticulation works with the leaf. I think that leaves (like branches and shoots) tend to embody order (fixed patterns of veins; regular curves) in contrast with say bark and soil and the overall flow of leaves on a tree. Also as Peter noted, the meeting of the leaves suggests two branches joining in opposition.

    But I really like the way these two things provoke a reaction - this sort of movement from convention is exciting could work amazingly well in other forms!

  8. #8
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    Default More about leaves.

    A low skill method of making realistic creases in leaves after reticulation, is to place a small knife accurately and hit the back with a hammer. I use a watch opening knife and lay my metal on a thick piece of rubber(as used for shoe Repairs). regards, Dennis.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
    A low skill method of making realistic creases in leaves after reticulation, is to place a small knife accurately and hit the back with a hammer. I use a watch opening knife and lay my metal on a thick piece of rubber(as used for shoe Repairs). regards, Dennis.
    I don't think there's anything 'low-skill' about those Dennis ;-)
    Di x

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moon Cottage View Post
    I don't think there's anything 'low-skill' about those Dennis ;-)
    I agree - if that's low skill, I'm flogging my hammers
    (Hiya Di!)

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