Printable View
Hello,
I’ve been asked to make a gold wedding band and since I’ve never worked with gold before I have a few questions..
The customers engagement ring is 18ct but would like the wedding ring 9ct, would that be a problem if they’re worn together?
Also, she would like the ring a dull gold opposed to shiny yellow (please see photograph) - how would I go about this?
Thank you in advance!
EmmaAttachment 10828
Hi Emma,
The ring in your picture has a hammered finish to it so it's maybe worth looking into texturing techniques - I think they've been discussed here recently so it's worth having a look around although I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than myself will be able to point you in the right direction.
The main problem with the rings being worn together is they will be different colours, although the client may be aware of this, the 18ct will be harder and there may be a sight wear issue, producing a hammered finish is pretty straight forward
you just hammer the the ring on a mandrel (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZDF-5ABS5o) be aware this may stretch the ring so this will need to be allowed for.
To produce the dull finish there are various methods one is after you polish the piece then go over the surface with a fine abrasive such as micro mesh, those who have or have access to a grit blaster would be able to use it
for this type of finish
Emma,
there will be a colour difference between 18ct & 9ct gold, so important to point this out to your customer. A matt / dull effect if that is what you intend will probably not be sustainable on the finger, it will naturally polish while being worn, again discuss this with your customer to avoid too high expectations. If you are intending the hammered effect as in the photo, remember that hammering will eventually make the ring larger than its original size, so you need to practice with copper / silver to discover how many sizes up the hammering will deliver. Also if you intend a certain thickness, hammering will also reduce the thickness, it all seems like hassle but make notes and you are then armed with information that you can call upon in the future. Regarding a technique for the matt effect, we have discussed this many times on the forum, use the search function, you should try many different methods and find the method that you and your customer agree on. Good luck, it's a nice project.
Also 9ct and 18ct metal will wear at different rates depending on what the gold has been alloyed and how it was made. 18ct is generally harder than 9ct so it will wear the new ring faster.
As said by josef1 it is the 18 ct that is harder not the 9ct as I mistakenly typed (now corrected)
Hi Emma,Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmawykes
As has already been said there will be a colour difference, but a 9ct ring is less likely to damage the under bezel of the engagement ring so there is some advantage.
If you overlap the 9ct wire and make the band two sizes smaller than the required size , then use a planishing hammer and work your way around the band evenly,checking the size as you go, you can hammer until it reaches the required size, try to allow for the reduction in depth and a slight increase in width.
I like to polish the inside as it creates a nice contrast.
Are you intending to hallmark the ring ?
Gold is lovely to work with and if you really mess up just melt it ,re roll and do it again.
Have fun.
Andy.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I'd recommend a (fine) frosting wheel for the finish - if it's hammered the matte effect will stay in the indented areas. When uskng a matte finidh I offer to redo it as and when as it will shine up.