Just thought I would post this you channel I found it by accident for any one just starting out it seems to have a lot of simple easy to understand info
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQ...NIdhYT2cB3IMzQ
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Just thought I would post this you channel I found it by accident for any one just starting out it seems to have a lot of simple easy to understand info
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWQ...NIdhYT2cB3IMzQ
Interesting, not one I've come across before. If anyone is on instagram, I highly recommend @makeitkimtoday she has made short video on everything from texturing, reticulation to basket settings and granulation
Yes I watched the flush setting video Bob and it is very skilfully done. Dead easy in fact until you first try it. Dennis.
I've recently used the flush setting method but I don't have any confidence that the stone is really secure. What I've not seen anywhere are guidelines on the maximum size of stone that is realistically practical to set with this method.
How true looks really easy on screen, I remember years ago when I first tried flush setting I thought all was fine, until the stone just fell out, then I realized you actually need to push the metal not just make a shiny mark.
I have not viewed all her video's the ones I have I found to be a no nonsense approach, a lot of video's out the presenter faffs around for 3/4 of the time before you get any useful info
Most jewellery uses sheet no more than 2.0mm thick, or has a patch added at the back to accommodate the stone without it poking through. Stones of 4.0mm and more would become increasingly vulnerable to pressure from behind.Quote:
Originally Posted by alastairduncan
The real problem arises with curved surfaces, such as rings made of rectangular wire, where the stones have to be buried deeper to cover the girdle. This becomes even worse with D-shaped and oval profiles. So as a rule of thumb, the stone diameter is best kept to no more than a third of the width.
Dennis.
All good advice Dennis. The piece I've set is a brooch and I did put a doughnut on the reverse to protect the stone, it is a 4mm cz. I wanted it flush as its an enamelled piece and I think it looks better without a separate fixture which is attached. However, that comes with all sorts of risks. I think the main one for me was I was pushing very hard, all the time thinking if I slip here it's going to make a big mess. It was set after it had been enamelled. So bearing in mind how hard I was pushing for a 4mm stone, what would I have to do for a 7or 8mm stone. Would it be reasonable to want to flush set a stone of this size in this manner? All of the larger stones that I have seen have been hammer and punch set and then the mount filed to shape afterwards but in my case that would have been impossible.
I don't think that the size of the stone would limit you on a flat, deep surface, but setting could become long winded and tedious.
It seems to me that you would benefit from a Foredom with a hammer attachment, which is less prone to slip, although the vibration might still disrupt the enamel?
Another route if you have a compressor is to set with a pneumatic tool.
Lastly a cheap and dirty system, is to insert a suitable point (or reverse the pointed one and reshape the other end) into a vibrating engraver, which can cost £20 or less on line.
The noise is awful, but it does the job. Dennis
This is the nub of my question, would it be reasonable to say set a 10mm stone by rubbing it in this way with a burnisher? What is the largest size anyone set with this method? Its not that I want to do this, but the question for me popped up because I didn't find the 4mm stone easy and I'm unsure of whether it is really secure, it was a question to see what others more experienced with this method of flush setting might attempt. I may be doing it incorrectly, but knowing what is possible will help in the the design process further down the line, what is reasonable and what is not? If I know its possible to set larger stones like this I'll have a practice until I get it right or more likely good enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
Exactly and the other factor is cleanup of a surface that is flush with the enamel. Fine for more traditional flush/gypsy settings where cleanup isn't a problem although I'm happy with my hammer and punch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
I have a pneumatic power assist for engraving but the problem again is the vibration and cleanup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
Thanks for the suggestions Dennis