Attaching Clock hands

Hi everyone! I’m in the middle of a project I’ve actually been working off & on for years! I think it’s NEARLY there now. I have a silver base piece in the shape of a clock face which is etched in fine detail. I also have created tiny clock hands made of bronze. I used bronze for strength and also liked the contrast in colour. I want to attach the hands to the clock face - I’ve first tried ‘cheating’ by using tiny joining screws which do work ok but they don’t look the best and they are difficult to keep holding tight. Would doing a rivet be the best way? I’d like the hands to be moveable but also a sturdy enough join that it’s not likely to break apart. If a rivet (which I’m not too experienced at) would a bronze wire to match the hands be the best option? This will not be an actual working clock but I still thought it would be fun to be able to change the time to whatever the person wanted. Any advice would be hugely appreciated!

Hi Sandra, I think you have answered your own question a rivet would be my choice, I would use bronze as you say to match the colour, shape the front side to your liking then peen over the back side, until it is at the desired tension.
When riveting, cut the length so it only has the minimum amount to peen over, makes the process easier.

Thanks China, sometimes I feel like a perpetual jewellery student as I don’t do jewellery-making regularly enough! I’m a member of “At the Bench’ and watched a few riveting videos today and realised this was one of my very first jewellery making techniques I learned years ago. So long ago now I’d nearly forgotten!

For delicate things my preference would be to use a tube rivet, which can be spread by inserting and rotating a scriber or needle and avoids the hammer. As Bob has said, keep it fairly short.
Silver tubes start at 1.0mm and the rule of thumb is to leave as much projecting, as the diameter of the rivet.
Practice first, before doing the real one. Dennis.

Dennis I agree a tube rivet would be the easiest, although to match the colour you would need a bronze rivet, I know of none available you could make your own

I’d say the same about riveting. Without seeing the clock design it’s up to you whether the rivets are the same colour or as an artistic element a contrasting colour

Thanks everyone, I’m going to look online for more info on using a tube to make a rivet. I like the idea of not using a hammer at this point too. I may actually just change the hands to silver to make things easier!

Could I just ask in regards to sterling tube rivets - where is a good source to buy these from? Or would you just use regular silver tube?

I would just get about 5.0cm from Cookson, Sandra. The Cookson size chart is below.

Actually, the silver end would blend well enough with bronze hands, I think, as the face is silver anyhow. Dennis.

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Originally Posted by Dennis

I would just get about 5.0cm from Cookson, Sandra. The Cookson size chart is below.

Actually, the silver end would blend well enough with bronze hands, I think, as the face is silver anyhow. Dennis.

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Thanks Dennis! As it goes with every project I’ve discovered I need additional tools for this project starting with a tube cutting jig. I’m hoping I finally get to the point one day when I find I don’t need any new tools! (Or maybe that never happens in jewellery making??!)

You can never have enough tools, "emergency tube cutter" drill hole in a piece of PVC or similar same size as rivet, push rivet in, cut to size through PCV and rivet and Bob's" your Unckle.
or use a god excuse to buy a another tool.

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Originally Posted by Sandra

Thanks Dennis! As it goes with every project I’ve discovered I need additional tools for this project starting with a tube cutting jig. I’m hoping I finally get to the point one day when I find I don’t need any new tools! (Or maybe that never happens in jewellery making??!)

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Actually Sandra, small tubes below say 3mm 0/diameter, can easily be cut with a fine blade without the use of a jig, and if necessary filed a bit.
My picture show s how to support it for soldering to a background using haemostats and a thin wire to insert, but other clamps, or self closing tweezers would do. Dennis.

I've finally just got back to working on my hand-riveting project yesterday! I bought several sizes of tube and found one that works perfectly. I first tried a scribe to rotate around and it worked a bit but didn't seem quite sturdy enough so I used a small dapping tool and pounded it gently. The hands are attached but the rivet looks a little rough and I obviously need to continue practicing this technique. It's possible the walls of my tube were too thick too. Dennis on your last post you pictured a method for soldering, I riveted each end though. Do you think soldering one end would be better?

You can solder one end, or rivet both, depending on circumstance and the material used.
If the tubing is a bit thick you can thin the end by running a ball burr that just fits.
You can also make several shallow saw cuts to make the end easier to turn over. all these things are a matter for more experiments.
I have even used a nail punch which has a hollow end, to curl the end over once weakened.
Dennis.

Thanks again Dennis, I’ll have to do a bit of experimenting! I’m attaching bronze clock hands to a silver clock face with a silver tube. Since the tube will fit tightly in the hole I could solder the back of the tube in place - a possible downside maybe once it’s soldered in and I botch up the rivet on the front it would not be fun to fix!

I dont think you'll botch it up Sandra if you practice first. Dennis.