1.5 mm flush set diamonds in 9ct gold ring

Hi, i'm trying to set 3 1.5mm diamonds in to a small 9ct gold ring.

Not worked with gold before and finding that the gold is very hard to push over. learning the hard way that it's not the best way to start to learn flush setting with such small stones. but my daughter wanted a narrow ring so small stones it had to be.

any tips on how to get the gold to flow over as currently the holes are now getting too big for the small stones. might just get some more gold and just go with a band and no stone

Neil

Hi Neil,
If you have not seen it, Soham Harrisons video helps a bit: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=so...v3LIO8aafygJAF

The secret is to have the stones fit so well that they need the minimum of burnishing to hold them in place. Then to have a burnisher with a good handle so that it is easyto exert pressure.

Lastly for rings, the metal should be about three times as wide as the stones, so that the stones are secure when set. Dennis.

We actually got shown to use a pusher instead of a burnisher on a course I did.
It does mark the surface more so has to be polished out but it was much easier to get the metal over to begin with then finish with the burnisher.
As Dennis says though the main thing is getting the hole exactly the right size and depth- depth wise you need to be able to push the metal across it without moving the stone so it needs to sit just slightly below the surface.
Definitely best practised in silver or even better, copper first though.

The best way I use is to use an old drill ball 005 flatten of the end make sure the end is polished smooth no scratches
And put into Handel ball round , drill hole so the stone fits in so tight it won't come out even if you bang it hard ,
Then with your flat end pusher scimitar around the edge of the hole about 45 degree angle clock wise or anti keeping a
smooth even pressure until metal is over the stone if done properly you will end up with a bright rim around the stone no
Scratches marks around the stone it will be very clean .
Secondly get another 005 ball drill put it in your drill and with sand paper take the drill down to a fine pin point
And make sure it is highly polished and put that in a grain tool Handel , then with it burnish inside the rim in a circular
Motion until all the metal is on the stone and rim is even .
There you go no mess no buffing over metal getting out scratches dents clean job, believe me it's the best way ben doing this for over 30 years , if you need any help give us a call.

Just adding the the points others have made really...

I find it very important to make sure the ring is nicely annealed before starting to flush set the stones. Its a technique that baffled me for some time, then through advice on here, as well as trial and error, it all just clicked and now I can flush set with ease.

So anneal the metal, drill VERY precise holes. Start with your smallest drill-bit, then work up a little. Then follow this with a smaller diameter ( than the stone ) ball burr / bud burr, followed by a setting burr thats either 1.5mm or fractionally smaller. Occassionally depending on the size of the stone and what burrs I have, I'll use a smaller setting burr but carefully widen the hole with it in a rotary motion until its wide enough.

As Dennis says, the aim is to get the hole precise enough so that when you test the stone in place in needs a gentle push until it almost 'clicks' into place. If you get this accuracy, plus the correct depth ( view under magnification ) and the metal is soft ( annealed ) then you'll have a lot less trouble setting them. Finally use the N, E, S, W and so on technique to set the stone evenly.

Cheers,

Nick

i think your talking about rub overs you don't wont to be undercutting 1.5 Dias in is set they won't be tight in holes and will
Have made more unessaray wok to get them secure.
Diamond setter over 30 years experience.

diamondsetting4u.com

I just flush set 5 x 1.3mm(ish) diamonds & I undercut them with a 010 bearing cutter :-p

To be honest, you can`t always just drill a hole since more often than not the stone sizes vary & often fall in-between drill sizes.
Using the next drill up will render the hole too big.....it makes absolutely no difference how you go about it, so long as the stones fit tight in the hole.