Silver will not melt using Max Flame Pro blowtorch

Hi all,

I am a relatively novice jewellery maker working in sterling silver. I have a Max Flame Pro hand torch and have successfully used this for soldering and annealing. I recently bought a Delft clay casting set and Carved a simple pendant to use as an original and try casting. Using the online calculators I found that my 1.1g wax model needs roughly 11g of silver so I am trying to melt down 22g to allow for the sprue etc.

I tried with one torch and the results were a greenish flame (I imagined this was oxides?) and slight melting (my scrap silver pieces fused together) but nothing like pouring consistency.
I actually have a slightly faulty one of the same torch (valve doesn't entirely shut when off) so, having read people on here say 'you could always use two torches to double the heat' to others, I tried this too. I did get more melting and some glimpses of that mercurial silver but even with two Max Flame Pro hand torches on the crucible I couldn't achieve a good melt.

I have no idea what I could be doing wrong. I am using a fully glazed crucible which I have resting on a hardened charcoal scorifier, adding flux when it gets red hot and then again when it begins to melt, working indoors with no breeze etc. I know the torch is hot enough to melt silver because I have accidentally melted the ends of 1mm silver wire I was working with.

I have seen people on this forum suggesting this torch is capable of achieving this so cannot figure out what I am doing wrong.

Could it be that resting the crucible on the scorifier is leeching heat? I hoped it would help it retain the heat. Or are these hand torches just not capable of melting 22g of silver? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as right now it seems I have spent money and time making wax models and getting the casting rings etc but cannot use them!

Thank you in advance!

You will need a bigger torch. Maybe have a look for a plumbers blow torch that will work fine for that amount of metal

https://www.toolstation.com/auto-blo...UaApG_EALw_wcB something like this. If you dont want to spend the money you can sometimes get more heat by building a little enclosure out of fire proof blocks to keep the heat in

Thank you so much. I was considering getting a bernzomatic but at this stage I am mostly just wanting to melt small amounts (roughly an ounce) so that I can make use of all my scrap silver, so will pick up the torch you suggested today as this seems a much more affordable option!

So I bought the torch suggested and it worked great at getting a really liquid melt... But now I am slightly puzzled...

The campingaz bottle it came with still feels like it is about half full (lots of liquid sloshing about in there when I shake it) but the blowtorch now seems to act as if it isn't getting gas even with the valve on full. Is this just how these cans feel when 'empty'? I did notice that if I give the can a really good shake then I can get the blowtorch to light for about 5 seconds. I have another spare gas can but just wondering if this is normal or not?

Thank you again!

Is the gas cylinder cold? The gas is in a liquid form in the cylinder, when liquid turns into a gas it requires warmth it gets this from it's surroundings. Latent heat of evaporation or vaporisation. If the cylinder is half empty then there is less heat overall stored.

If you let the cylinder warm up does it then work. Warm not hot!

Butane is more prone to this than propane.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eytansolo

So I bought the torch suggested and it worked great at getting a really liquid melt... But now I am slightly puzzled...
The campingaz bottle it came with still feels like it is about half full (lots of liquid sloshing about in there when I shake it) but the blowtorch now seems to act as if it isn't getting gas even with the valve on full. Is this just how these cans feel when 'empty'? I did notice that if I give the can a really good shake then I can get the blowtorch to light for about 5 seconds. I have another spare gas can but just wondering if this is normal or not?Thank you again!

---

I have used this make of torch for about 20years, even in winter in an unheated garage. The canisters have always emptied to the last drop, when the flame slowly went out.

The defect is either with your control valve, or with the tiny jet, which you will see if you unscrew the burner, or possibly with the valve of the canister or its counterpart.
There is no harm in trying the new canister, because it closes again when unscrewed.
If changing to a new canister is no better, then you should return just the head of the torch as defective. Dennis.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dennis

I have used this make of torch for about 20years, even in winter in an unheated garage

---

Me to, although it's around 14 years and never had a problem. I thought that maybe if it had been running for a long time melting the metal it may have cooled the cylinder. A long shot, missing the obvious make sure the nozzle isn't blocked as it was working. ��

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alastairduncan

Me to, although it's around 14 years and never had a problem. I thought that maybe if it had been running for a long time melting the metal it may have cooled the cylinder. A long shot, missing the obvious make sure the nozzle isn't blocked as it was working. ��

---

Yes I have used the same and no problems. Problem is with the torch.....not you!