Flush Setting Tiny Diamond

Hi all,

I've taken on a job that's got me wondering.

I am needing to flush set a tiny tiny diamond (<1mm) into a 9 carat gold band. I know this can be done because I took the diamond out of his grandfathers ring to set into a new one I'm making re-using the gold and stone.

My main concern is measuring and holding the stone (it's so small that if I drop it then it'll be gone forever!) and again because of the size of it I am finding it near impossible to measure it with a caliper. Is there a tool to assist with this? I am thinking a small blob of grease on the end of a pin may be best to hold it (which would in turn make it easier to measure)?

My other concern is using a burnisher on such a small hole to fold the gold over the diamond to secure it in place. I am thinking of grinding down a pick and polishing to make my own however if anyone can recommend a tool that will make the job a lot easier than I'd welcome the suggestion!

Thanks in advance,

Sam

On holding, if you have a suitable grain tool that the table just fits inside, dampen the tool with just enough water so the surface tension holds the stone. If you don't have a suitable grain tool, make one up from an old burr (grind the end flush, drill into the end a little way & form the cavity with a ball burr then grind down the outside to make it less bulky).

Similarly, for the burnisher, make one from an old burr... Snap off the burr head, use a rotary tool of some sort & a suitable abrasive to grind it to a fine ogive & polish.

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Originally Posted by ps_bond

On holding, if you have a suitable grain tool that the table just fits inside, dampen the tool with just enough water so the surface tension holds the stone. If you don't have a suitable grain tool, make one up from an old burr (grind the end flush, drill into the end a little way & form the cavity with a ball burr then grind down the outside to make it less bulky).

Similarly, for the burnisher, make one from an old burr... Snap off the burr head, use a rotary tool of some sort & a suitable abrasive to grind it to a fine ogive & polish.

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Thank you Peter for your reply,

I don't have any grain tools to hand but will make something up as you have suggested. I've got a pile of old bicycle spokes kicking about that will be perfect for the job (as I don't have any old burrs either as this is only my second time setting a stone!). I'm pretty sure some of them are stainless too so they'll work well for a makeshift burnisher to save my pick for, well, picking!

Brass rod is what's recommended in Grether for shifting stones about - easier to work with than a burr, admittedly. There's a lot in that book; it's old-school and many methods are superseded but it's still good for grounding.

I shall have a look into the book you mention Peter - I'll not try google though as a quick search for "Grether book" threw up some interesting looking literature...

I'll probably use the spokes anyway as i have them kicking around and the only brass stock I have is 1" diameter and turning it down makes a hell of a mess! I guess the advantage of using brass is that, being quite soft, it is less likely to mark softer stones and / or the gold it is being set into.

Grether Technology of Setting is perhaps a safer set of search terms...

I can imagine a 1" bar might be a tad unwieldy.

I measure stones with a presidium gauge


But you can also drill holes in scrap and test fit until you get a snug size . On the test peice remember to drill holes at the back so you can poke the stone out.

Attachment 11043

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Originally Posted by josef1

But you can also drill holes in scrap and test fit until you get a snug size . On the test peice remember to drill holes at the back so you can poke the stone out.

Attachment 11043

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I think that's the approach I will take. Thanks for the pointer about the through hole - I can almost guarantee I'd have not done that otherwise!

Right, I've had a go at this and have learnt a few things - mostly that I am not any good at setting stones! It is a skill I am keen to learn and I have a bag of CZ's aside and just need to roll some copper sheet to practice on. I suspect my problem is in part due to poor tool geometry and design and as i am inexperienced at this I can't seem to compensate for this.

However, I am short on time for this particular project and was wondering if anyone on here could help me out with this?

The diamond is 1.25 mm diameter and is to be set in 9ct gold which has been inlaid into Damascus steel. I have pre-drilled the hole 1 mm through the ring and opened it out to 1.25 mm with a stone setting burr during my first attempt at setting the stone. I have since sanded the ring down a little so the stone sits ever so slightly proud of the surface. I've attached a picture below.

Attachment 11213

If this is something someone could help me out with then please PM me with a quote!

Thanks,

Sam