PMC Clay / Art Clay & setting/firing with CZ

One of the most frequently asked PMC / Art clay questions we get asked is "can I use CZ's with my PMC or Art Clay design"

The advice we usually give is the following...

Prepare a seat that will provides enough metal/clay to surround the gem. Make a conical hole and remove clay from beneath the stone.
Set the gem in position and press it down until the table is below the surface of the work. Remember that the clay around and under the stone will be contracting and will squeeze the stone upward. To compensate, press the stone deeply into the clay.
Fire and air cool.

My question is does anybody have any other helpful hints, tips or techniques for setting or firing CZ's ?

Also easy (and very neat) to drill a hole using a stone setting burr (after drilling pilot hole) at the leather hard greenware stage and pressing stone in as above.

I dont like putting stones into wet clay as
1) If you make an error it's very difficult to correct without eaving marks in the clay.
2) It tends to kick up "edges".

I much prefer setting them into dry clay & this is how I do it:
1) Choose the position of the stone (making sure the area is deep enough for the stone!).
2) Drill the pilot hole all the way through
i) It allows you to easily remove the stone when trial fitting +
ii) It lets light through after firing.
3) Drill a hole the same diameter as the stone.
Ensure it is deep enough so that the table of the stone (it's widest point)
is below the top level of the clay. (As the clay fires the shrinkage then locks the stone in place :))
4) Fire the piece and allow to air cool (quenching may crack or discolour the stone)
5) Finish and polish as normal.

Nic x

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MuranoSilver

I dont like putting stones into wet clay as
1) If you make an error it's very difficult to correct without eaving marks in the clay.
2) It tends to kick up "edges".

I much prefer setting them into dry clay & this is how I do it:
1) Choose the position of the stone (making sure the area is deep enough for the stone!).
2) Drill the pilot hole all the way through
i) It allows you to easily remove the stone when trial fitting +
ii) It lets light through after firing.
3) Drill a hole the same diameter as the stone.
Ensure it is deep enough so that the table of the stone (it's widest point)
is below the top level of the clay. (As the clay fires the shrinkage then locks the stone in place :))
4) Fire the piece and allow to air cool (quenching may crack or discolour the stone)
5) Finish and polish as normal.

Nic x

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It works!!!!! Cos we did it on Nics course lol;)