Help fixing cufflink!

[Niamh]

Hello,
Most of you may remember i made my dad some cufflinks for my wedding in the form of spitfires, I was really happy with them and gave them to him a few weeks ago on my wedding day

He was so happy with them and wore them on the day. In the evening suddenly the T bar at the end of the cufflink popped off and it was broken.
When looking at it, the pin at the top of the cufflink holding the T bar in has fallen out.

How could i fix this? I know i can get some wire and thread it in but im wondering how i cap the ends of the wire to stop it falling out again, Im scared if i use heat too close to the t bar it will melt the springs inside it.

Would it work if i maybe got some Thermo gel or similar and coated around the place that needs soldering? Thanks

[ps_bond]

Immediate thought is did you rivet the pin in place? Assuming I've understood the bit that's gone kaput, that is.

Any pics?

[Dennis]

Yes you will note that the pins are a good friction fit and protrude about 1mm at each end. This is so that you can rest each end in turn on a metal block, plate, or anvil and tap the other repeatedly with a small hammer to cause it to spread.

If your hammer is too big, apply a nail punch and tap that, but be very slow and gentle, so that the ends spread and don't bend.

It helps to rotate a larger round burr in each end of the opening first, to create a small countersink for a flush finish.

If the other pin has not been riveted yet, you can measure it for thickness with callipers and buy a new piece of wire. Dennis.

[Niamh]

Yes you will note that the pins are a good friction fit and protrude about 1mm at each end. This is so that you can rest each end in turn on a metal block, plate, or anvil and tap the other repeatedly with a small hammer to cause it to spread.

If your hammer is too big, apply a nail punch and tap that, but be very slow and gentle, so that the ends spread and don't bend.

It helps to rotate a larger round burr in each end of the opening first, to create a small countersink for a flush finish.

If the other pin has not been riveted yet, you can measure it for thickness with callipers and buy a new piece of wire. Dennis.

Thank you Dennis! I hadnt thought of riveting the pin for it to fit, I dont have a riveting hammer, but they dont look to pricey to buy. This is a photo of whats happened. thanks
11436

[Niamh]

Im wondering if a spring tool nail punch could work? If i were to clamp the wire secure, and then use this tool would that work or do you think a spring tool would be too forceful and bend the wire? thanks

[Dennis]

Looking at the model you have chosen, I'm not sure it needs riveting at all. Did it come ready assembled? perhaps you still have the model number, or the link?

[Niamh]

yes it was ready assembled when i bought it, they are not from cookson, they are taken from a old pair i recycled x

[Dennis]

Ah, not a good move. You can still rivet the toggle so that it will just about rotate, if you can get a wire to fit.

As might have been mentioned at the start, ready assembled findings tend to get overheated and not work well unless you are very experienced. Hence my assumption that you would use new and rivet it yourself.

You can also unsolder the findings by holding them up with tweezers and heating the joint until the aeroplanes drop off. Then go for something else. Dennis.