Cuff link bits

[Ruedeleglise]

I have been advised to buy unassembled cuff link fittings as heat can destroy the spring mechanism in the complete units. Do you recommend cooksongold NUV 103 as the unassembled unit?

[Dennis]

Yes, provided you are confident with riveting the arm on, once the small u has been soldered in place.

If you have doubts about riveting the go for NVU S11 with its recommended choice of arms which simply grip it. The down side is that the arms will be soft after heating and will need repeated flexing (together and apart) until their rigidity is restored.

To look smart, it will be important that the centres and angles of the two cufflinks match. Also note, that the thin double arms are rotated to match the direction of the button holes and that any design will have to be the right way up on each side. Dennis.

[Ruedeleglise]

And again....thanks Dennis.

[Ruedeleglise]

Dennis, you mentioned the riveting type and said, “if one is confident to rivet the unit onto the rectangular block” what are the particular skills needed to rivet these on please? I have riveted before but in the construction of larger engineering units.
Ruedeleglise....

[Dennis]

I said that, because I was not sure of your expertise. The pin provided is just a piece of wire with a good fit, protruding slightly on each side when inserted. The holes could do with slight countersinks made with a large ball burr.

You can easily practice with sterling wire and copper sheets. All you need is a small riveting hammer (or a nail punch and hammer) and a steel block to work on.

The danger is only that you will bend the rivet, seize up the joint, or bend the heated U shape by hitting too hard. So go very slowly. Dennis.

[Ruedeleglise]

Is the riveted joint free to move ...rotate, or is it, i assume fixed?

[Dennis]

I'm not sure now, as it's a long time since I used one and the picture does not make it clear.

In recent times I have used chains or rectangular wire with holes and jump rings, and a home made shape for the other end. This link will show the huge number of connections possible, including rigid ones.

https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+cuff+links&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=cM_h0brgR-ltFM%253A%252CM7v73nI25K9f_M%252C_&usg=__cOXKH2H_xsPI9SFXvzGHFAZN7mo%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPlrqQiPfaAhUJIsAKHR-RCuoQ9QEIWzAD#imgrc=cM_h0brgR-ltFM: Dennis

[Ruedeleglise]

Emailed Cookson....they rotate. Can’t see the need for that really so will probably get the other ones that one needs to “tension” by careful flexing after soldering.

[theresa]

I'm not sure now, as it's a long time since I used one and the picture does not make it clear.

In recent times I have used chains or rectangular wire with holes and jump rings, and a home made shape for the other end. This link will show the huge number of connections possible, including rigid ones.

https://www.google.com/search?q=images+of+cuff+links&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=cM_h0brgR-ltFM%253A%252CM7v73nI25K9f_M%252C_&usg=__cOXKH2H_xsPI9SFXvzGHFAZN7mo%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPlrqQiPfaAhUJIsAKHR-RCuoQ9QEIWzAD#imgrc=cM_h0brgR-ltFM: Dennis

Just noticed this thread Dennis. What is the max size the 'lozenge' part can be to fit through a hole? I am making some cufflinks with a cab on the front and rectangular shapes on the back, joined by chain. But I am working in the dark a bit because my husband doesn't possess any cufflinks or dress shirts for me to try. :ta:

[Dennis]

I would say about 6mm in diameter and 15mm long. They can be quite a struggle to get through one handedly.
If you have a department store, or an M&S near you, have a good look. Dennis.