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TDA20
12-04-2018, 08:05 PM
The day job has been getting in the way of my jewellery making practice but thought I’d post my attempts so far. Started but making copper band rings and think the solder join is getting better so thought I’d venture into the realms of sweat soldering.

I was trying to practice Andrew Berry’s video on sweat soldering with the ring. Went for a polished finish on then inside and satin finish on the outside. Any tips on how to get the edges cleaned up? I was rather overzealous with the sandpaper and have ended up with very curved edges to the shapes and still have a halo of solder! Would radials be aggressive enough to get rid of excess solder?

For the teardrop shape I was trying to get a mirror finish on one side and satin on the other. Used wet and dry paper 400 to 1200, eveflex large round burrs (all 4) then yellow Menzerna with Alcantara. What am I doing wrong? Do I need longer on each stage? I covered the shiny side with masking tape then tried to use a scotchbright wheel on the other side but managed to rub the masking tape off at the edges. If I finished the base before soldering instead, would I be able to get rid of the halo of solder after without ruining the satin finish?

Also, how do you clean up in small areas between soldered bits?

Sorry for all the questions! I know a lot of it is trial and error but any advice welcome.

Tess
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Dennis
12-04-2018, 09:07 PM
Lots of different remedial techniques eventually make a piece look over-worked, so the first thing is knowing when to stop.

The backing and the edges of the additions need to be well finished before soldering.

Your concern about the solder showing is accentuated by using silver solder with copper and would be much less visible in a silver piece.

To hold back solder when sweat soldering and stop it creeping out at the edges, make a small bevel on the lower edges of the addition.

Only experience can tell you how to judje the right amount of solder.

Finishing is problematical for small in-between areas, but a wet and soapy jewellers brass brush will reach them, leaving the high areas to be re-polished.
You might also try a set of 3M radial brushes, yellow, brick red, blue and green. Masking tape is more likely to withstand them, especially if double.

Even so, I think you can be well pleased with what you have achieved, Dennis.

enigma
12-04-2018, 09:18 PM
Im not seeing a problem with the solder on the photos, perhaps it looks more in real life but the photos look ok.
Radials aren't really going to remove solder, you would need the ever flex flame and knife edge burrs for that.
I would do the satin finish on the side you want then do the mirror finish where you want it afterwards.
Not sure which burrs you are using when you say round, do you mean these ones?
http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Eveflex-Rubber-Burr-520-Blue------Coarse-On-A-2.34mm-Shank-prcode-999-1955
If so they will give a good finish but you do need to be thorough at each stage.
This is a mirror finish I did using them and finishing with Menzerna super finish.
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JewelleryByMandy
13-04-2018, 07:01 PM
Lovely pieces. I struggle with the same problem. Havent got my head round all the different types of pumice and stuff yet!


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TDA20
14-04-2018, 11:30 AM
Thank you so much Dennis, Sarah and Mandy.

I am pleased with the pieces - just want to learn the best ways of doing things so I can improve! I think I am being over-critical about the soldering as it does show up more against the copper.

Dennis, bevelling the edges and finishing them before soldering is a great idea. I shall try that next time. With the wet and soapy brass brush how do you stop the soapy water getting everywhere? Do you do it over a sink? There are different sizes of brass brush on Cookson’s, which size would you recommend for small-ish pieces?

Sarah, yes I am using the “20” size burrs. Think I might be pressing too hard as I get lines when I polish flat surfaces with them. Will keep practicing! Will get some flame and knife edge to add to the collection next time I do an order. Trying to not buy anything for a little while though after splashing out on the Foredom...

Your ray is absolutely stunning! Certainly a finish to aspire to and with such a lovely shape and detail :)

Thanks Mandy, it’s nice to have someone at a not too dissimilar stage to figure things out with!

You’ve all certainly inspired me to keep going and trying new methods. Will report back with my next round of pieces!

For those of you in the UK, hope you’re enjoying the gorgeous weather! It’s been long awaited...

T x

enigma
14-04-2018, 12:41 PM
Are you using the burrs in both directions?
I go over the whole piece one way until the only lines showing are the ones Ive just done, then with the next grade I go the other way until again the only lines showing are the ones Ive just done.
Each grade will impose its own lines but the idea is they cancel out the deeper lines of the one before and then the final stage of polishing removes the lines of the final ( green) burr.
But you do also need to keep the burr flat to the piece to avoid indented lines.
I think you are probably right about the solder, there will always be a slight halo with copper because of the colour difference.
Thanks for the compliments :)

Dennis
14-04-2018, 03:07 PM
With the wet and soapy brass brush how do you stop the soapy water getting everywhere? Do you do it over a sink? There are different sizes of brass brush on Cookson’s, which size would you recommend for small-ish pieces?T x

Yes, it can get everywhere.
I use a wooden handle four-row brass brush for everything, brushing only towards the basin. I usually hold the piece down on the flat surround of the basin, or hold it up by hand.
Where possible I tie on some thin string or binding wire as a handle and always use a perforated cover over the drain.
Dennis.

TDA20
15-04-2018, 10:48 AM
Thanks Dennis and Sarah for some great tips :)