New at metal casting - help me understand which mold

[Valhalleim]

Hello all,

I've been doing a few pendants but which one was done by hand and long process with belt grinder, files and drill press. Now I'm finally looking to buy a kiln and start smelting silver, brass and copper.

My question pertains to the molding process. I've read so many resources the process and such and I'm a bit confused.

I have designed my pendant in auto-cad. My next step is to have the piece 3D printed in the highest detail so most likely high acrylic plastic(?) from there I'm confused. Do I buy a mold kit from amazon and make a rubber silicone mold out of it? or instead do I make a wax cast out of it? Then I'm assuming I pour in my liquid metal.
I'm planning to make it in Stainless Steel first and later try in Brass/bronze.

Any help & links on services where to buy casts or services please let me know.

Thank you!!

[Dennis]

Well there are various grades of stainless steel and as far as I know casting it in a home studio is a non starter, because you need an induction furnace and a controlled atmosphere to preserve the integrity of the alloy. The melting point will be around 1500°C.

Expertly casting the other metals you mention also requires sophisticated and expensive vacuum investing and casting equipment, so you might consider in the first instance at least employing a caster.

The alternative would be to consider low tech casting systems such as Delft clay, or cuttlefish. Dennis.

[enigma]

Totally agree with Dennis.
Realistically doing more than Delft clay or cuttlefish casting isn't economical due to set up costs for most people so they tend to send items away for casting.
You can send in CAD form I think without needing to make your own mould.

[josef1]

I made something similar a while back. You may be best having it printed in a castable material or milled from wax. Otherwise you will loose detail. then have it cast in silver then have a vulcanised rubber mould made from that silver master then you can inject wax into the mould to reproduce the mode and cast these. I have never tried making mould from a silicone RTV form an acrylic model. I think it would work but it is not as nice to work with as the rubber moulds IMHO . Nice model by the way !

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq182/JosefOne/21ea89be-ae8a-48a9-a259-10701219e09f_zpsdagzvfvr.jpg

Milling the handle from hard wood, I wanted to get Enigma from the forum to inset braided hair in the handle but never got round to cutting the reliefs for it but I will do when I get chance !


http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq182/JosefOne/8772685e-429f-4594-ad32-f4b1b1ce6e8d_zpsiarslkcf.jpg


http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq182/JosefOne/456f5864-6fe5-49be-b125-499e518a31ca_zpsnizabwdu.jpg


I made an end ferrel for it as well but could no find a picture of that

[enigma]

Thats turned out beautifully Josef!

[swageblock]

You can get a low temperature silicone [vulcanising range 80 -100C @100 bar]which means that you can cleanly mould from wax and 3d printed items items.It is far superior to RTV.[http://www.j-coker.co.uk/]
I mainly use it 300mm disc format for pewter casting,but it is very easy to cut and use in injection type mould frames.