opal earrings

[enigma]

I just finished making these for a customer and Im quite pleased with the end result but they were an absolute pig to do.
I used 0.4mm rose gold for the bezels and it was a nightmare to push over even with the hammer handpiece and being annealed.
I tried using setters wax to hold them but it kept breaking with the pressure of the hammer handpiece on it so I ended up wedging them into a wooden block instead.
Just wondering how you guys would approach it, any tips appreciated.
Opals are from Australia and the earrings are just over 30mm long.
10125

[china]

I would use 0.3, or thin down the edge before rolling it over are they black opals? it is bit hard to tell

[Faith]

Hi Sarah,

They're beautiful :) Are the stones an OpalAuctions find?

I haven't ever used gold, but to hold earrings I use theromloc. I tend to get a big lump, and when it's all soft press it into my vice jaws then flatten the top to make a T or mushroom shape, then press the earrings in. The trick is to avoid covering all but the minimum of bezel wall while it still being secure. When it's cooled I then tighten the vice to hold the mushroom stem part really tight. But you have a big lovely grs block so I bet you could get thermoloc in that way easier :)

Faith

[Dennis]

Beautiful tropical look to those opals Sarah. As Bob says, roll the bezel right down, or make a knife edge bevel. I have most of box of setters wax upon a top shelf, no longer used, because it fractures when you least expect it. Dennis.

[enigma]

Thanks guys

The opals were provided by my customer, I know they are from opal actions in Aus but not sure what the yellow ones are.
I will try 0.3mm and thermolock next time thank you.

[Faith]

Hey Sarah,

I forgot to tell you, after you introduced me to opalauctions I got my first stone recently!

This little guy:
10126

It's about 25mm long and 4mm thick, but I'm waiting until I'm more confident about more inventive designs to set him.

Ta again for the recommendation tho, its a treasure trove :)

Faith

[Dennis]

I'm waiting until I'm more confident about more inventive designs to set him.Faith

You've hit on the problem exactly, Faith. To show the stone at its best, you need the least obtrusive metalwork that will hold it securely.

Why not go ahead and wear it as a pendant, say. You can always reset it if you ever think of a better version Dennis.

[china]

Faith, that opal would look nice as pendant with a simple claw setting

[theresa]

On Jewellery Training Solutions, Peter Keep demonstrates a good way to secure Opal in the setting. Burr a groove inside so when you push the bezel over there is less stress on the Opal. Also, try using a burnisher to push over the bezel. I have used this method and found it a lot easier than usual. I also use Thermoloc on a block of wood which I then secure in my vice. I also drilled holes to accommodate the posts. Don't possess a GRS but wish I did!
Beautiful earrings BTW.

[enigma]

Thanks for the tips Theresa, I couldn't budge the bezel with the burnisher so I obviously just had it too thick.
Im always a bit wary of going too thin in case I make a mess pushing it over and then don't have enough thickness to clean up but its a bit of a double edged sword I guess as the thicker it is the more likely I am to make a mess lol.
Fine silver is certainly much easier than rose gold thats for sure.

Thats really pretty Faith , I have a bit of a boulder opal collection sitting around waiting for me to get round to actually making the bracelet I designed ages ago lol.
That would look really nice in rose gold, maybe gold claws with a silver backing to keep the cost down?

[Faith]

Hey,
Thanks so much for the advice and encouragement all - Sarah I particularly like the idea of rose gold, I hadn't considered that at all as I've never worked in gold. Well it won't be my next project, while not way expensive it's too nice to set as an experiment, id like to feel practiced at whatever I do. And I find it quite motivating having things to look forward to setting :)

Thanks again all,

Faith

Ps - Sarah, look forward to seeing your bracelet when you get the time :)

[china]

Faith just put idea in your head something similar to this
10135

[Faith]

Ooo thanks Bob, sorry I didn't spot your post straight away. That's lovely, is it yours? Is the backing a bit like a bezel setting but then with claws to actually hold the stone? Actually is the back open or closed too? I suppose you could do either couldn't you.

Great inspiration though I've saved the link :)

Faith

[enigma]

You will be fine when you do it Faith, you are very diligent

[china]

Faith, back is open as this piece has nice colour on the back as well, yes it is just like a bezel, except there is no extra allowance to rub the bezel over as the claws secure the stone
make it up the same as a bezel then pierce out the back, if you are really feeling creative you could pierce the back with a design, then solder on the claws, with opal complete as much finishing/ polishing before setting the stone, less chance of damage to the stone. Similar can be made just using heavy gauge wire to make the frame/bezel.

[enigma]

With my earrings I made the bezels from strip with an open back then soldered 0.8mm wire inside at the base to hold the stones.
Partly to allow the most light in but also to save on gold.

[Faith]

Thanks Bob and Sarah,

I'd often mused about how settings like that were made, both good approaches depending on metal and how open you want the back to be :) I actually have a couple of other stones in my stash that this kind of setting would be great for, so while I have my eye on my very next project already I'll definitely try this soon :)

Thanks again both
Faith

[J Allison]

Im surprised you didnt break the opal using a hammer handpiece

[china]

You can set opal with a hammer hand piece I have done many times