Soldering...again!

[angmc]

So I've been getting along ok with my soldering lately thanks to purchasing the Max Flame torch, although that's packed up on me now but that's another story!

I'm making a pair of very simple studs and I'm trying to sweat solder a smaller piece half on and half off onto a larger piece but the problem I'm having is that when the (hard) solder starts flowing so does the top piece...all over the place! I initially melted the solder onto the bigger piece and then positioned the smaller piece on top but as I said as soon as the solder starts to flow again the top piece slides all over the place and I just can't seem to reposition it in time before the solder hardenes again. I've tried using a third hand but that doesn't stay in position either.

I've abandoned my first efforts as they just ended up a mess and cut out some new pieces but just thought I'd ask for some advise before I attempt the soldering again. I did think that this time I'd try putting the solder on the smaller piece to see if that would work better.

Also I've been reading the thread about titanium soldering strips...maybe that's the answer but they look a bit big for this although would be useful for future projects.

[joella]

Hi there angmc
Ok, so its bonfire night, but people who really know what theyre doing will be along in time and be really helpful. In the meantime you seem to be stuck with me, if you are able to post pics, that will be really helpful. You could try using a soldering pick to hold the piece in place, made from titanium - cooksons sell them if you don't already have one, - along with other suppliers. If you are careful you could just poke it with the tweezers when it slides out of position. If you use your torch in your left hand if right handed (opposite, obvs if left) you will have more control using your right hand to poke back into position (I have found it much easier to control this kind of situation in this way, rather than using the torch in the dominant hand). I'm sorry, pathetic I know, but that's all I've got, but as I say, someone who's really good will be along and help out soon.
Good Luck
Sue

[CJ57]

I would always melt the solder onto the piece that goes on top, so the small piece. I don't know how big this is but I would also, if it's quite small, as it comes to heat pin the top piece in place with tweezers. If it's larger I would think that James will suggest clips

[Petal]

I would mix a small amount of rouge and paint onto the already soldered piece. Then when you want to do the 2nd soldering it should not move or re-melt. I used to use tippex, but now use rouge, as its much better.

hth xx

[Dennis]

The smaller piece is sailing away on the sea of molten solder. That can easily be prevented by any device that will rest on it to weigh it down, some of which have already been mentioned above:

Hand held tweezers or a hand held soldering pick.
Surgical forceps which will support themselves, as will self closing soldering forceps resting on the edge of a block.
The soldering clips of course, but also common or garden cotter pins, annealed and adjusted for light pressure.

My picture shows the surgical forceps (haemostats) easily available on line, but here used for another purpose.
Dennis.

[angmc]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I've been doing a bit of experimenting with scraps and I think the problem was that I probably used too much solder and also that I melted it onto the larger piece rather than the smaller. Also the fact that the smaller top piece has to balance half on and half off the bottom piece so it's difficult to grip it with tweeezers or reposition it with a pick while keeping the torch going. On the first attempt I ended up melting the section of the top piece that hangs over the edge of the bottom one so obviously I need to try and avoid doing that again!

[angmc]

Yes a sea of moulten solder describes it perfectly! I did I did try holding it down with the tweezers in the third hand but there probably wasn't enough pressure as they kept moving too. I like the idea of those surgical forceps though.

[Dennis]

Yes, too much solder is at the heart of it, but the devil of sweat soldering is that too little gives a poor result too, with little chance of remedy.

One thing I could mention, is that bevelling the lower edge of the top piece will tend to hold back the solder from spilling out.

If you have already tried to steady the rogue piece and failed, it could be that you were not holding your tweezers in you best hand (for most of us the right) and holding the torch in the other.

The soldering tweezers from your third hand can also be balanced on the edge of a brick, or a piece of broken brick, to act as a stabilizer.

[Goldsmith]

Sorry to keep repeating myself about the use of soldering clamps, but they do make this type of job easier, once you have made some clamps they last for years.

It sounds like this shape of clamp would have suited your job.

9553 9554 9555 9556

James

[angmc]

Yes Dennis that was my dilema, how much solder to use especially with only half the top piece being in contact with the bottom piece and I probably overcompensated. I was using my dominant hand for the pick but still didn't have much control. I even dug a little indent in the soldering brick to hold the bottom piece so at least that would stay still while I was trying to position the top piece but that didn't work either. I'll try the bevelling suggestion and using a brick for balancing.

[angmc]

James, I'm definitely going to get some of those strips. Would I be able to shape them using No.2 saw blades?

[Goldsmith]

James, I'm definitely going to get some of those strips. Would I be able to shape them using No.2 saw blades?

I cut the ends of my strips with size 0 blades, mainly because they are the largest I have as I don't use any larger blades. You could also just file the points or use a grindstone. I have also milled the titanium strips down thinner to 0.70mm. thick for making some clamps.

These clamps were made from the milled down, thinner strips of Titanium.
9557

James

[angmc]

Ok thanks. I'm a bit limited when it comes to tools/equipment so I'll probably just file them down.

[angmc]

Update...
So I decided to purchase the titanium strips and waited until they arrived before I attempted the soldering again. I used the 'P' shape and have to say it worked a treat! It didn't budge at all! I think that shape might be good for holding bezels and ring shanks in place when soldering together. Anyway thanks for all the help on this.

[Goldsmith]

Update...
So I decided to purchase the titanium strips and waited until they arrived before I attempted the soldering again. I used the 'P' shape and have to say it worked a treat! It didn't budge at all! I think that shape might be good for holding bezels and ring shanks in place when soldering together. Anyway thanks for all the help on this.

I am glad the clamp worked for you, this is how I clamp bezels and ring shanks;

9573 9574 9575

James