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tazdevilia
29-08-2016, 04:49 PM
Hi all

I have put down my torch and started dabbling in cold connections and love the riveted look using a mixture of brass, copper and silver metals in my pieces.

My rolling mill is sat doing sod all and would like to put it to use and texture some of my components before assembly.

Q: what do you guys suggest to texture my pieces? (Some photos of textured metal end results would be amazing!)

I have some texture plates made from plastic which I use for PMC

Q: could I use these in my rolling mill or will they die after a few passes?

Q: anyone tried to texture with embossed card?

Q: How about stencils? Do they work?






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Dennis
29-08-2016, 06:50 PM
There is so much to say, but I will try to be brief. First of all experiment with small sqares of copper sheet and record on them what was used.
Next use annealed metal and only moderate pressure. You should not need to put your shoulder to the wheel, so to speak.

My favourite material for texturing would be scraps of thin fabric, from net curtaining to the stuff cross stitch embroidery is done on. Most things you use will be trashed after one pass, so once you have some favourites, you need to haunt fabric departments in stores, for remnants, or buy the minimum quantity which is usually 10cm.

If you double the fabric over the metal and lead with the closed part, you will print both sides together and be able to choose the best side. As a bonus this causes the metal to remain perfectly flat.

If you dont like what you have done, give it a second pass with new material, possibly at an angle to the first. This will give you a completely new effect.

If using a texturing material which might harm the rollers, such as sand paper, or steel grids, you must wrap the whole thing in a protective cover of paper first. Dennis.

LydiaNiz
29-08-2016, 06:57 PM
The plastic will die, but experimenting is fun.
I regularly use material, leaf skeletons, any dried plant material, thread, paper, card, feathers, snake and lizard skin (shed by my reptilian chums), anything! Even differebt tapes make subtle textures. Here are some of the above.
932693289329
9325

joella
29-08-2016, 08:04 PM
Oooh Lydia,

please tell me what kind of feather you used for that. I have had absolutely no luck at all with feathers, they never come out well at all for me. Also, great to see your reptilian texture too, I've never seen that done before.

Sue.

LydiaNiz
29-08-2016, 09:27 PM
It was from one of our chickens!
On the reptile skin front you have to be very careful as some of them have really 'orrible bacteria! Need some tlc before use. Bearded dragon skin is nice too (this is not a nice pendant but the texture is!) 9330

joella
29-08-2016, 10:11 PM
That's a really gorgeous texture, its beautiful. I don't know any snakes or lizards but really like the idea that you're using the skins and feathers of the animals in your family - their sort of thank you to you for you looking after them! I'll have a go with hen feathers and see if I'm any more successful with them. Thanks
Sue

tazdevilia
29-08-2016, 10:32 PM
Wow! They're just gorgeous!

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tazdevilia
29-08-2016, 10:37 PM
Q: Nail art stamps plates? I have a few of them from my nail art era?

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tazdevilia
29-08-2016, 10:43 PM
Thanks Denis! Thats loads of useful tips! Thank you

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enigma
29-08-2016, 11:31 PM
Great photos!
Can I butt in and ask how you avoid the solder going over the texture when soldering a bezel on?

mizgeorge
30-08-2016, 12:44 AM
Q: Nail art stamps plates? I have a few of them from my nail art era?

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Yes, the brass ones work just fine. As do brass embossing plates, die cut paper, hessian, lace (possibly my favourite), wire, and quite a lot of rather obscure foodstuffs (not always entirely intended for rolling). I do find some things work better in multi-part sandwiches - sometimes with two different metals, and as Dennis says, I tend to also include a layer of paper on the outside of everything in case it's either messy or potentially damaging to rollers. It's amazing how much goo can come out of a leaf that you really thought was thoroughly dry...

Dennis
30-08-2016, 01:03 AM
Great photos!
Can I butt in and ask how you avoid the solder going over the texture when soldering a bezel on?

I guess the question is meant for our Lydia, Sarah and I hope she'll come back about that.
For me, putting the solder inside the bezel rather sparingly of course, but also putting a small bevel on the outside bottom edge.
This causes a stronger meniscus to form and helps to hold back the solder. Dennis.

LydiaNiz
30-08-2016, 08:02 AM
I do what the same. You might be tickled to know when I do get in a sticky spot while making I often ask WWDD? (What would Dennis do). Stops m'panic, gets me thinking.

ps_bond
30-08-2016, 08:46 AM
...quite a lot of rather obscure foodstuffs

The mind boggles. Although I immediately thought of using baran, the fake plastic leaf used in bento boxes. Not strictly a foodstuff, but might roll.
The more rigid plastic nets you get some fruit in give a pleasing texture.

enigma
30-08-2016, 09:23 AM
Thanks Dennis and Lydia!

Dennis
30-08-2016, 09:31 AM
The mind boggles. Although I immediately thought of using baran, the fake plastic leaf used in bento boxes. Not strictly a foodstuff, but might roll.
The more rigid plastic nets you get some fruit in give a pleasing texture.

Yes artificial skeleton leaves from craft suppliers work well. They don't break up in use, just squash flat. Dennis.

caroleallen
30-08-2016, 11:39 AM
You can get die cuts from here https://www.etsy.com/shop/rollingmillresource

LydiaNiz
30-08-2016, 11:55 AM
Carole I could kiss you. I've a pattern I've used in etching that this would be perfect for, am ordering now. Thank you!

Patstone
30-08-2016, 02:46 PM
I have never used a rolling mill. Are the hand turned ones heavy to use (not as strong as I was 20 years ago). Do they need to be bolted down or is the weight enough to hold them relatively still. Wouldn't mind getting the cheap cookies one for £164.

Dennis
30-08-2016, 07:25 PM
They are not heavy work if they have gears, Pat. Mine has only ever been mounted on a heavy board with doorstops as feet.

The board also has handles, so I can move it out of the way when not in use. I have learned over the years to proceed slowly and not use much pressure, which gives better results. Dennis.

tazdevilia
30-08-2016, 07:40 PM
Thanks for all the tips guys! I am starting to think about synthetic leather, snake and crock after Lydia's gorgeous image using various reptile skin. Do you think the image will transfer with it being squashy?

Also has anyone tried plastic or fabric leaves like the ones you get on artificial flowers?

I have another question (sorry!) On the subject of riveting, could I use copper pins like the ones you buy at b&q for riveting? I guess the copper will be hardened and need annealing first though but those things are cheap as chips and fairly ready to go.

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Dennis
30-08-2016, 08:00 PM
Generally I have found that soft plastics do not print well, if at all. However you need to do the experiment to try out the thousands of options.

Copper pins would work for riveting if annealed and made of solid copper. However they might be iron, copper plated, which is no good at all.

An alternative source of copper wire is a metre of earth wire from a local electrical wholesaler, which comes in various thicknesses with many strands. The end of a wire would take more heat to ball it up, but it can be done. Dennis.