New vessels

[jlazz]

New vessel and some better pics of the last few - advice needed please how do I get the bottom edge( Sides ) flat without rounding it over ?

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[ps_bond]

Your vessels are predominantly fabricated aren't they? What are you doing that is rounding the edge at the moment?

(And they look good too - but I tend to seize on the support req over the feedback, mea culpa)

[jlazz]

Hi Thanks Peter - bit hard to explain atm (without a drawing ) the base are being brazed - and it's the finishing that's the problem give me 5 mins and I will post a drawing - Jake

[jlazz]

I think the best way would be to set the base as in A but sometimes I cant do this so I fiton as in B but when I file and finish I end up with a slight rounded bottom edge C ?
btw what is ( support req over the feedback, mea culpa) is this a advice page on this fourm ? - just joined a few weeks ago - thanks Jake


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[Faith]

Hi Jake,
Don't feel qualified to answer your question but just to say the vessels look superb.
Do you design them purely to be art pieces or are some of them intended to have a function also? (Hope that's not a rude question, was just interested and had wondered before).

Faith

[Dennis]

I think the best way would be to set the base as in A but sometimes I cant do this so I fiton as in B but when I file and finish I end up with a slight rounded bottom edge C ?

My choice for the base would always be 'B', because it requires less skill. Then I would run a fine waterproof pen around the solder join, so that I can see not to get too close when removing the waste around the outside with a saw, or with snips, leaving just a tiny amount of surplus, to rub off on abrasive paper put flat on the bench.

For the round vessels I would use a buff stick, which consists of a piece of hardwood lath with abrasive paper carefully scored and wrapped around it. It is held in place with wire, tape, a staple, or a drawing pin, but must be applied at the correct angle.

That way you will always have sharp angles. Dennis.

[jlazz]

Hi Jake,
Don't feel qualified to answer your question but just to say the vessels look superb.
Do you design them purely to be art pieces or are some of them intended to have a function also? (Hope that's not a rude question, was just interested and had wondered before).

Faith

Thanks Faith thay do have a function only that thay are vessels - but probably for display - Jake

[jlazz]

Thanks Dennis

[Faith]

Hi Jake - actually i am going to comment on your question but forgive me if the observation is well obvious... Is the issue that you need to file the base flush in construction B, but you don't want to damage the sides, so the inclination will always be to tilt the file / emery stick away from the side, thus bevelling the base?

If that's the problem I'm still not sure of the answer (pretty sure I'd end up bevelling the base) - but it might help to clarify the problem (maybe!)

Faith

[Aurarius]

Hi Jake - actually i am going to comment on your question but forgive me if the observation is well obvious... Is the issue that you need to file the base flush in construction B, but you don't want to damage the sides, so the inclination will always be to tilt the file / emery stick away from the side, thus bevelling the base?

If that's the problem I'm still not sure of the answer (pretty sure I'd end up bevelling the base) - but it might help to clarify the problem (maybe!)

Faith
I suspect your assessment is correct, Faith. Dennis refers to the same thing when he says the buff stick "must be applied at the correct angle."

I've encountered this problem myself when making cabochon bezels surrounded by rope twist decoration. There's a tendency when you're filing the base of the bezel back to the perimeter of the rope twist to lean the file/buff stick away from the rope twist to avoid catching it and putting flat spots on the round wire. But then you end up with a bezel base that is slightly bevel-edged, which isn't the look you want.

The secret to success in your case, jlazz, is the theoretically simple, but in practice angst-inducing, one of keeping the file or buff stick perfectly perpendicular to the vertical side (judging by the shape of some of your vessels, what's perpendicular won't always be easy to tell) and to go dead slow with only very fine abrasive once you're getting close to the critical point.

Or to go with option A and experience angst of a different kind.

[ps_bond]

I think the best way would be to set the base as in A but sometimes I cant do this so I fiton as in B but when I file and finish I end up with a slight rounded bottom edge C ?
btw what is ( support req over the feedback, mea culpa) is this a advice page on this fourm ? - just joined a few weeks ago - thanks Jake


Nothing much more to add than has been said already - B, but keep the file level with the sides so the base ends up at the same angle as them. Doesn't matter if you touch the sides a little, a couple of scrapes will sand/buff out. It'd be nice if you could file to a scribe line on the underside, but getting the alignment spot on would be problematic.

Or D, raise them from flat sheet and use a sharp-edged stake to put the bottom creases in :)

My parenthetical comment just referred to the fact that I ought to give feedback more in posts rather than just dealing with the technical part of the query.

[Goldsmith]

Jake, before I make any suggestions, can you give me an idea of the sizes of your vessels?

[jlazz]

Jake, before I make any suggestions, can you give me an idea of the sizes of your vessels?

Hi Goldsmith the tallest one is about 7" H X L 3.5"X W 1 " and the rest are about 5" tall some of them are not that problematic as they have flat sides which I can use a flat plate with abrasive paper - but I still need to get the bottom edge flat with no rounding with some of the less flat forms - Thanks for you input - Jake

[jlazz]

I suspect your assessment is correct, Faith. Dennis refers to the same thing when he says the buff stick "must be applied at the correct angle."

I've encountered this problem myself when making cabochon bezels surrounded by rope twist decoration. There's a tendency when you're filing the base of the bezel back to the perimeter of the rope twist to lean the file/buff stick away from the rope twist to avoid catching it and putting flat spots on the round wire. But then you end up with a bezel base that is slightly bevel-edged, which isn't the look you want.

The secret to success in your case, jlazz, is the theoretically simple, but in practice angst-inducing, one of keeping the file or buff stick perfectly perpendicular to the vertical side (judging by the shape of some of your vessels, what's perpendicular won't always be easy to tell) and to go dead slow with only very fine abrasive once you're getting close to the critical point.

Or to go with option A and experience angst of a different kind.

Thanks Aurarius

[jlazz]

Nothing much more to add than has been said already - B, but keep the file level with the sides so the base ends up at the same angle as them. Doesn't matter if you touch the sides a little, a couple of scrapes will sand/buff out. It'd be nice if you could file to a scribe line on the underside, but getting the alignment spot on would be problematic.

Or D, raise them from flat sheet and use a sharp-edged stake to put the bottom creases in :)

My parenthetical comment just referred to the fact that I ought to give feedback more in posts rather than just dealing with the technical part of the query.

Thanks Peter

[FailedAssay]

Reminds me of the Normandy jug designs. Always liked sloping vessels.