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Elizabeth
31-05-2016, 03:48 PM
Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone knows of suppliers of vintage/pre-used gemstones? I'm mainly thinking about diamonds and sapphires & not looking for large or expensive stones.

I'm using recycled gold and I was thinking it would be good in terms of ethics to use gemstones that have also had a previous life but I don't know how feasible this is in terms of availability & price?

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom!
Elizabeth

metalsmith
31-05-2016, 05:57 PM
Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone knows of suppliers of vintage/pre-used gemstones? I'm mainly thinking about diamonds and sapphires & not looking for large or expensive stones.

I'm using recycled gold and I was thinking it would be good in terms of ethics to use gemstones that have also had a previous life but I don't know how feasible this is in terms of availability & price?

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom!
Elizabeth

Words of wisdom would be caveat emptor. Many pre-used gemstones are not extracted with the care and attention befitting a 1/2 ct sapphire for e.g. but then again, unless you're buying from somewhere a gemmologist has checked the stones, it might not be a 1/2 ct sapphire and of course if a gemmologist has checked it over, it has to be worth their time!

I've bought a few with mixed success, plenty of failure, learning as I go.

pearlescence
01-06-2016, 08:20 AM
At some risk of mis-identification you could try your local jewellery shops. When they take in scrap items for melt etc they pull out the stones and could have a stash or could hang on to them for you

Ceri
01-06-2016, 09:07 AM
I buy jewellery at auction. Usually from Ewbanks or Bonhams. The lots I bid on tend to be those with lesser stones and most of the other people bidding will usually be after one of the major pieces. Because it is an investment or a business decision when I buy I calculate out what the piece is worth in material terms and will not bid higher than that. I have picked up a number of lovely rose cut and mine cut diamonds this way between 0.25 and 0.75 carat. I have also found this a good way to source opal, rubies, garnets, and other stones. Quite often smaller stones are just described by colour. Make sure you can visit the auction and check the goods first. I also sometimes buy 'parcels' of jewellery which have one or two pieces that I really want then remake or sell the rest at a later date. My original auction hunts started because I was trying to find antique Sciacca coral beads to finish a necklace.

Elizabeth
01-06-2016, 09:47 AM
That's really helpful, thanks very much for all the advice... and the words of warning!
I will definitely look into the auction route, perhaps mixing up old with new stones could be an interesting route.
Ceri - may I ask, do you remove the stones yourself or do you take them somewhere to do it? Thanks again.

Ceri
01-06-2016, 12:16 PM
I remove them myself. I have taken pieces to a jewellers to do so and lost a ruby and 2 garnets to breakage in the process. I have only ever broken an opal which had a large crack running through it prior to purchase (the other two stones in the ring were the reason for purchase) but I recut the opal as a smaller stone so it was not wasted! I use pliers to release claw set gemstones working methodically on opposing claws to keep the pressure even thus avoiding breakage, snips and pliers to release bezel set gems (these are very tricky and require more patience especially if the stone is very well set) more often I work from the rear of the bezel first so that the stone has wiggle room before I cut the top of the bezel. Gypsy set, use a scorper to remove the metal surrounding the front holding the stone then press firmly using something lower on the mohs scale that the stone itself on the outer edge until it moves...these sometimes pop out with a ping...make sure your floor is clean!!! (I use a pencil to push) and for pave set the process is the same as gypsy set, move the prongs and or raised metail away from the stone and push firmly. for open backed pave push from the rear! Major rules of auction buying; take into account the buyers premium when working out what you are willing to pay and stick to your planned price!

Elizabeth
01-06-2016, 12:36 PM
I remove them myself. I have taken pieces to a jewellers to do so and lost a ruby and 2 garnets to breakage in the process. I have only ever broken an opal which had a large crack running through it prior to purchase (the other two stones in the ring were the reason for purchase) but I recut the opal as a smaller stone so it was not wasted! I use pliers to release claw set gemstones working methodically on opposing claws to keep the pressure even thus avoiding breakage, snips and pliers to release bezel set gems (these are very tricky and require more patience especially if the stone is very well set) more often I work from the rear of the bezel first so that the stone has wiggle room before I cut the top of the bezel. Gypsy set, use a scorper to remove the metal surrounding the front holding the stone then press firmly using something lower on the mohs scale that the stone itself on the outer edge until it moves...these sometimes pop out with a ping...make sure your floor is clean!!! (I use a pencil to push) and for pave set the process is the same as gypsy set, move the prongs and or raised metail away from the stone and push firmly. for open backed pave push from the rear! Major rules of auction buying; take into account the buyers premium when working out what you are willing to pay and stick to your planned price!

Ceri that is so helpful, thank you very much. Now I just have to be brave enough to have a go :) (both for the buying & the removing!)

Ceri
01-06-2016, 01:01 PM
It can be daunting but it is also fun...like haggling at a bazaar to get the best deal. Start with local auctions...most will have their catalogue online even if you have to bid in person. Good luck.

pearlescence
01-06-2016, 06:21 PM
Local house clearance type auctions often have jewellery items too. and often no catalogue, just a couple of viewing days

Elizabeth
02-06-2016, 08:19 AM
Local house clearance type auctions often have jewellery items too. and often no catalogue, just a couple of viewing days

Thanks, sounds like another good tip! Looking forward to some rummaging...

Lynn.D
05-06-2016, 01:50 PM
Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone knows of suppliers of vintage/pre-used gemstones? I'm mainly thinking about diamonds and sapphires & not looking for large or expensive stones.

I'm using recycled gold and I was thinking it would be good in terms of ethics to use gemstones that have also had a previous life but I don't know how feasible this is in terms of availability & price?

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom!
Elizabeth

Hi Elizabeth,

If you can use these garnets from a Victorian bracelet just pm me your address and I'll post them to you. I've been told they are real garnets and I'm pretty sure they are as I've fired half a dozen of them into silver clay with no loss of colour or breakage!

I've no use for the rest of it so your welcome to it if you don't mind picking out the rest!

Lynn

9007

Dennis
05-06-2016, 03:45 PM
Looks as if you might have had a good bargain there Lynn. If you use clay, I found they are also good put in pointy side out for fierce looking eyes. Dennis.

Elizabeth
05-06-2016, 09:09 PM
Hi Elizabeth,

If you can use these garnets from a Victorian bracelet just pm me your address and I'll post them to you. I've been told they are real garnets and I'm pretty sure they are as I've fired half a dozen of them into silver clay with no loss of colour or breakage!

I've no use for the rest of it so your welcome to it if you don't mind picking out the rest!

Lynn

9007

Lynn that is such a kind offer, are you sure you don't want them?! I've sent you a pm...

Lynn.D
06-06-2016, 05:55 AM
I'm quite sure I don't want them Elizabeth, every time I de-clutter they just get moved from one drawer to another while I wonder what on earth to do with them, so you will be doing me a favour. Hope they are useful.

Lynn