Todays effort, i have found square stones are hard to set.

[sam.k]

http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww358/Akkirin/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_195718_zpspar3xtvk.jpg (http://s735.photobucket.com/user/Akkirin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_195718_zpspar3xtvk.jpg.html)
I had fun making it but the stone was a nightmare, it kept moving! I cut a seat into the top gallery for it but I don't think I cut it deep enough. also I think my prongs are just to far from the stone to be neater finish.
I think next time I set a square I will have the prongs in the middle rather then the corners, or maybe use 2 prongs for each corner? who knows! I just couldn't stop the stone from twisting.
still, it turned out alright, not my best work but not half bad.

[Aurarius]

Yes, it looks like the pavilion of the stone is twisting relative to the prongs because the contours of the bezel it's being pressed down on to are forcing it that way. You could try removing the stone and trimming out the bezel a bit more until the stone sits nice and square in the setting. This twisting also seems to have opened up a gap lower down the prong on the left letting daylight through; or else the setting is a fraction too big, which would produce the same effect.

[Dennis]

There are a lot of good points too, like the tapered ends of the shank, the mount being put in as a lozenge, the claw ends are filed neatly.

Sometimes if the stone slips around it might be enough to hold it in place with a big wadge of BluTak behind it, until two opposite claws grip. It can be dabbed out later. Dennis.

[sam.k]

ive just tried to re cut the bezel, its siting a bit more square but I think one of my prongs (the bottom one) is out by a mm or so...
http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww358/Akkirin/20160209_213233_zpskx3xncpc.jpg (http://s735.photobucket.com/user/Akkirin/media/20160209_213233_zpskx3xncpc.jpg.html)
needs to be polished again now though... bloody ring clamp.
oh well, no pain, no gain. the next one will be right

[enigma]

I love the way you work through things and improve each time you try something.
I haven't done a claw set square yet but I think if I did I may go for the other type of corners like this ( sorry, not even sure what they are called!)
8642

Although as your stone is actually a cushion cut rather than a square maybe just put the claws in the middle of each side?
Im sure somebody who knows more will be along soon too :)

[Nick martin]

I think you've done a great job to be honest, and its good that you have the ability to self-critique too.

Personally speaking I havent claw-set a square stone yet, and tend to bezel set them. As has been pointed out already, because the stone is cushion-cut, it was always going to be very difficult to get a prong to grip the rounded corners so if you're setting a similar stone in the future then I'd definately go down the route of placing the claws centrally between corners so that they're gripping a flat edge. You could even add another few claws, and the ones on the rounded corners would be more decorative / protective whereas the claws on the flat sides of the pavilion would be doing the hard work of gripping the stone and securing it symetrically.

My only critique if you like would be that the stone is slightly out of position as you've noticed, and that the claws should ideally be a bit closer to the stone as there appears to be a gap on the first photo ( left hand side ).

On a positive note I like the design, great effort all round, and the fact you've attempted it in the first place coupled with the tapered shank shows that you're pushing your skills. Top effort!

Cheers,

Nick

[ps_bond]

I made a setting for a barrel-shaped stone around Christmas; customer asked for 4 prong but because of the probability of it slipping sideways from the claws I suggested either V claws or go up to 8 (either side of the blunt point on the stone). The claws were close enough together to give some protection to the point.

The stone looked a bit like this:

8643

Simple prongs on the points (blunter than depicted) wouldn't have held it for long.

[Gemsetterchris]

Maybe split claws that grab either side of the curve or a wider at the top claw rubbed around the curves like an open bezel?

[ps_bond]

Could have done, but this was one that was asked for for "after Christmas" at the start of December - that turned out to mean "27 December" so there wasn't a huge amount of time to play. Ended up laser welding the entire setting anyway (18kY).

[Gemsetterchris]

this was one that was asked for for "after Christmas" at the start of December - that turned out to mean "27 December"

:D gotta luv those people.

[ps_bond]

When they're paying appropriately I can forgive a lot :)

[sam.k]

I think it's time I buy a book on setting rather then just keep trying to figure it out, maybe I'm over reaching with my skill level a bit.

[ps_bond]

In no particular order...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Creative-Stonesetting-John-Cogswell/dp/140810945X
http://www.amazon.com/Techniques-Master-Stonesetting-Gerald-Wykoff/dp/0960789235
http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-technology-setting-P-Grether/dp/2880120454
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Guide-Gemstone-Settings-Styles-Techniques/dp/1408154994

And for completeness, although I'm not so fond of them these days -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Diamond-Setting-The-Professional-Approach/dp/0961354518 & the other titles

There's also http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mounting-Setting-Stones-Design-Make/dp/1408109123 but I'm not that keen on it.
I've skim read http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stonesetting-Contemporary-Jewellery-Makers-Melissa/dp/184448906X and felt it was *very* basic and not worth my getting it.

I don't think there's anything on the market that covers "newer" stone setting methods in detail, but if you can see & understand what's going on then http://www.grstools.com/books/jewelry-and-stone-setting/023-114.html is a good read, if not it's a very entertaining picture book :)

[Gemsetterchris]

I think it's time I buy a book on setting rather then just keep trying to figure it out, maybe I'm over reaching with my skill level a bit.

A book can help a lot but you are also learning very much by experimenting..also it would help if you slowed down abit, think ahead & visualise while designing/planning.

[sam.k]

I've been eying up the one from Anastasia young, would it be a good place to start?
I think slowing down is just the ticket Chris, I think I'm trying to learn it all at once without really waiting for past lessons to sink in.

[ps_bond]

...visualise while designing/planning.

Absolutely!


I've been eying up the one from Anastasia young, would it be a good place to start?

It's nice eye candy and it'll give some ideas - less dry than e.g. Grether (which is very traditional in style).

[Nick martin]

Brilliant book.. but John Cogswell is even better imo.

NIck

[Gemsetterchris]

Your visualising imagination is quite a powerful tool with abit of practice.
I quite often do jobs in my head by using different methods quite realistically to see how they might pan out & can see pitfalls & get a better idea of what`ll work (or not)..without actually laying a finger on the job.
Most probably you can do that for the actual making of the job too.

Actually I tend to do that for a lot of everyday things & projects which drives my other half nuts :D she being more of a get on with it & see what happens type.

[sam.k]

If I where to solder a prong onto either side of the current prongs (so there's 8 in total) do we think that would hold things better?
Just thrashing out ideas.

[Aurarius]

If I where to solder a prong onto either side of the current prongs (so there's 8 in total) do we think that would hold things better?
Just thrashing out ideas.

It's certainly possible. You'll need to choose your solder carefully and not go mad with the torch.

One other book on setting not yet mentioned is http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/3925665390?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
It's methodical and very well illustrated, and, bibliographically speaking, a fine piece of publishing.

If you're teaching yourself setting you need as many books as you can get because they all show and tell you slightly different things or at least in a slightly different way. Getting a different angle on a job often helps to clarify things that haven't already been clarified by reading the earlier books you've read. Actually doing the job helps to clarify things even better, of course, as Chris has said.

BTW, I've got the Wooding book Peter has linked to. Can anyone tell me whether his books Channel Setting and Bead Setting cover entirely new ground or repeat quite a bit of the content in the Diamond Setting book? I'll probably end up getting them anyway, but i'd like to know how many pages of new content I'm actually going to be getting for my money.

[sam.k]

Well I tend to only use hard solder but have medium and easy to hand so I'm sure I could pull it off.
I think if I where to file a small semi circle into the gallery next to each prong I could set the new prongs a little closer in to get a really snug fit.
I have a cunning plan!

[sam.k]

ok so I ended up cutting the previous setting off and starting again, a couple of issues I came up with where -
- the stone didn't like being gripped by the corners
- the way I had attached the setting to the shank was not very strong ie it flexed under a bit of force.

I decided to redesign slightly to fix these problems. the stone would be gripped on the sides and I would anchor the shank in a stronger way, sadly the ring when mocked up look dreadful so I had a wiggle around, tried a few other things and in the end decided on this design. without blowing my own trumpet I think I nailed the sucker. after being quite disappointed with the previous effort not sitting in the mount straight this version has really made me happy.
http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww358/Akkirin/Mobile%20Uploads/20160211_195239_zpsqu22no6t.jpg (http://s735.photobucket.com/user/Akkirin/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160211_195239_zpsqu22no6t.jpg.html)
http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww358/Akkirin/20160211_202235-1_zps631r0rh1.jpg (http://s735.photobucket.com/user/Akkirin/media/20160211_202235-1_zps631r0rh1.jpg.html)

[jayneharrison]

It's beautiful! Your determination to improve and succeed is really inspiring - well done Sam.

[josef1]

Looks great well done

[metalsmith]

Great result ... the offset shank is in vogue, so I think you're onto a winner.

[enigma]

Yes looks great! really like the offset shank too.

[Gemsetterchris]

Some jobs are abit flimsy & you`ll need to pack them out with some setting cement, thermo-loc or something similar.
You`ll also need some for holding pendants & earrings.

[sam.k]

May I ask your opinion on the finished piece Chris? I find your input to be very constructive.

[Gemsetterchris]

Make a pusher that fits the shape of the outside of the claw to help retain it`s shape.
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt257/Gemsetterchris/DSCN0017_zps4mac9umx.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/Gemsetterchris/media/DSCN0017_zps4mac9umx.jpg.html)

Use a cup bur for round wire claws (or file ect)..notice the claw remains in a straight line & isn`t bent over the stone at an angle much?
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt257/Gemsetterchris/DSCN0018_zpsldtfmooy.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/Gemsetterchris/media/DSCN0018_zpsldtfmooy.jpg.html)

Excuse the pic as it`s very old & non digital..but you should see that it looks better seeing just a round ball from above.
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt257/Gemsetterchris/DSCN0021_zps9pr6lix2.jpg (http://s617.photobucket.com/user/Gemsetterchris/media/DSCN0021_zps9pr6lix2.jpg.html)

Hope that answers a few things.
Well done for figuring out a design that worked, it`s just a case of refining your details now.

Top pictures are from diamond setting by Wooding...hope he doesn`t mind! It`s abit old fashioned nowadays but still helpful.

[sam.k]

Woohoo pitchers! Cheers chris.

[enigma]

Great tips thanks Chris.
I do find it much easier with the cup burrs although take care with really soft stones Sam as I did manage to mark an opal...