Setting a diamond

[Annie J]

I've been asked to set two small diamonds and I've bought earrings claw and peg do I need to heat the setting before setting the stone? It seems too hard to push over thanks

[Dennis]

No, if you heat it, it will become less secure.

Drill a vertical hole in a piece of scrap wood or your bench peg, to fit the post and sink it in. You will now have a firm base for pushing.

Once you have made sure that the stone fits, close the prongs evenly around the stone with pliers. Now mark where they will be bent down, remove the stone again and and cut tiny notches on the inside, first with a saw blade and then with a needle file. They must be very shallow not to weaken the wires too much.

Now using a pusher, push down the prongs, cut off the surplus and file the ends, with a safe sided file. Diamonds resist scratching, but you might just as well be prepared for softer stones in future.

This is not a walkover for a beginner,and I would suggest you practice with cheaper silver if you are ultimately using gold.

Also bear in mind that you are aiming to display the stone to best advantage, not make a show of wires. So cut the set claw ends quite short, flatten the tops and round the ends.

Dennis.

[Annie J]

Thank you! Will give it a go!