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enigma
30-09-2015, 11:23 PM
Ive stupidly accepted a commission without giving enough thought to how Im actually going to make it!
My initial thought was that I could use 1mm round wire for the setting but the customer wants a 7mm cushion cut amethyst which is 5mm high so even if I cut down into the band 1mm will clearly be nowhere near tall enough.
Its to go on a 2.5mm thick by 5mm wide flat rose gold band with inlaid horsehair braid so I have 2.5mm depth there.
Any ideas? #-o
8199

Dennis
01-10-2015, 01:33 AM
Yes, faceted stones are remarkably high in the larger sizes. That's why given a choice you would have gone for a square cabochon in this case.

As it is you can gain about 2mm by reducing the ring behind the stone, or cutting a small square window behind it to act as a bearer. Then if using your setting, you will still need it to be 3.0mm or so high in the centre, but more still on each side as the ring curves away. A scale drawing on squared paper will tell you .

To use your design, maybe go for strip? Or use your 1.0 mm wire and raise each section on maybe four stilts of the same wire. An experiment with copper would tell you . Dennis.

enigma
01-10-2015, 09:28 AM
Thanks very much Dennis!
I was forgetting the extra height the slope of the ring will cause so thanks for mentioning that !
I will try strip first I think but guessing it will need to be at least 1mm thick to make the design work ?

Dennis
01-10-2015, 11:41 AM
Hi Sara,

I would not like to go on with this without an experiment. More and more, in my old age, I try to iron out the problems in copper first and even abandon dearly held design ideas if they don't work for me.

However I can say that for larger faceted stones I tend to use slightly curved strip (about 10mm in radius) which gives a more elegant result because the base of the bezel becomes narrower.

Also I usually draw a sideways view on graph paper or squared paper, using a compass and ruler, with each 5mm representing one mm.
When the drawing is completed you can just count off the various dimensions required for your bezel. Dennis.

enigma
01-10-2015, 02:12 PM
Thanks Dennis,
Ive decided to use a 5mm stone so at least the height will be slightly less ( about 3.6mm rather than 5mm), I shall definitely be making it in copper first!

Dennis
01-10-2015, 05:02 PM
We'll certainly look forward to seeing the result. Dennis

enigma
19-11-2015, 12:33 PM
Well I finished it, I did alter the design somewhat as I couldn't make the 'swirls' thick enough that I was confident they would keep the stone in place especially on a horsey gals finger lol
So we discussed design and her main request was to keep the swirl effect which made life easier along with using the smaller stone.
She loves it so thats the main thing :D
Also we both really love this amethyst from Ward, such a lovely shade.
I must admit I went straight in and did it in gold, Im so ridiculously busy I didn't want to take the time to remake it.
Although my first attempt was in strip and that failed anyway but I just removed it and redid in 1mm round wire cutting the seat into the ring so only had a small amount of gold strip for the melting pot :)
8347

Dennis
19-11-2015, 06:06 PM
Well you did it like the professional you are Sarah. In the mean time we had fun giving away advice without the responsibility. Thank you for showing the finished ring. It's great.

enigma
20-11-2015, 03:22 PM
Thanks Dennis for always being around for us novices :)

more534
20-11-2015, 10:51 PM
oh my, that is stunning.

I have a collection of tail hair from various horses that have galloped on to greener pastures, and you're an inspiration to me.
I don't think I'm nearly ready to tackle anything like what you're doing yet, but I hope to learn.

enigma
21-11-2015, 10:42 AM
Thanks very much :)

theresa
27-01-2016, 10:23 AM
Beautiful ring Sarah.

enigma
27-01-2016, 03:28 PM
Thanks Theresa :o

I just finished making another one in silver with a garnet.
I used D shaped wire for the 'bezel' this time which looks nicer I think although not sure how easy it would be to bend in gold.8614

metalsmith
27-01-2016, 08:14 PM
Stunning ring (now plural).

Tabby66
29-01-2016, 05:33 PM
Very nice Sarah :)

enigma
29-01-2016, 05:43 PM
Thanks Metalsmith and Tabby :o